Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Due to Dave's unfortunate incident (thankfully he's not too badly hurt), I came up with a crude kickstand safety switch.

See my post below for a better and more universal diagram.

It uses 2 commonly available parts...an SPST Normally Closed Reed Switch and a magnet. Since most of our triples are turned off by grounding either the CDI/Magneto or grounding the coils (points bikes) it's pretty simple to wire in.

Wire the reed switch between the kill wire and ground. Find where on the frame is a convenient spot to mount the reed switch so that when the kickstand is folded up, it's closest to the frame. This is probably going to be very near the pivot. Mount the reed switch on the frame there and mount the magnet to the kickstand so that it is almost touching the reed switch when the kickstand is folded up.

When the kickstand is down the reed switch will complete the ground circuit in the ignition and the bike will not start. Fold up the kickstand and the reed switch will open the ground and the bike will start. Want to kill the motor, put the kickstand down again. You can also wire it in so that it works a light on the dash instead of killing the ignition.

If you get a DPST Normally Closed switch, you can have both the kill feature and the light.

Sorry for the crude drawing...MS Paint and a mouse.

Kill sw for points disables 12v rather than grounding coils.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

I stand corrected. In that case, for a points bike, you would need a normally open switch with a current capacity of 5+ amps to have it operate as a kill switch. You'd still use a normally closed switch if you wanted a light instead.

Jeff

You would want it weatherproof.

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Using a poorly conceived idea along with bad mechanical practice is not an upgrade but rather a recipe for disaster.

Reed switches are weatherproof by their nature.

This will work on both points and CDI. Did the whole thing as a .jpg, so if there are any typos, I can't easily fix them.

The reed switch is your typical Normally Open house alarm door switch. You can use the matching magnet if they come in a set, otherwise, any small magnet will work. Just set them in close proximity with the kickstand up. You will have to test to find the max distance allowed for the reed switch to close with the kickstand up. The reed switch will activate the relay. I used the relay because I couldn't find a reasonably priced reed switch that will handle the current draw of the points system. The relay is Radio Shack part number 275-218 and it can handle a 10 amp load at 12 volts. They have a socket available also...part number 275-220. Both items are available in stock at most Radio Shacks.

I'm going to edit my original post.

Here is the key to wiring this correctly for your bike.

Match up your bike to the list below to see how to wire this to your bike:
CDI diagram --- H2 (all), H1D, KH500, and KH400
Points diagram --- All S Series, KH250, all 69-72 H1(wires to CDI boxes, not coil on CDI models...H1B wires to coils.)

I got this from Mraxl's resource page wiring diagrams. The diagrams on the resource page are for US models. Double check your wiring diagram to see if your bike's ignition works by either ground or 12 volts and which wire to hook it up to.

I take no responsibility if you wire this up wrong and fry something gotta cover my butt

Honda's only good idea, the rubber "tongue" on the kickstand, simple and easy.......

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Honda has both the switch AND the rubber snubber. My GL650 has the snugbber, and it works so-so, as the side stand MUST be made to swing up without further prompting. If the side stand has much resistance inn its travel, the stand will stay employed and not easily retract, even after the snubber has moved its initial distance to put the stand up. Keeping the side stand well lubed up, and not over tightening the side stand bolt should keep it working well.

The switch is on a lot of their models, and can be easily mounted to the frame.

Would there be any benefit in utilizing the neutral switch in the circuit, so us guys with chambers and no center stand can run the bike without the stand down, as long the gearbox is in neutral?

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'72 H2 : Blue-ish.

cant argue with that!

although this guy is pretty cool

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tRo6a4VhvU&feature=relmfu