Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Just a heads up, a SKF crank bearing decided to send a few parts through my center cylinder.

It had about 7800 miles on it, with no reason, as in debris in the motor, lack of oil, extreme redline disregard, etc.

It just threw a separating plate and rivet.

Made a heck of a mess.

If you rebuild your crank, or have someone else do it, absolutely avoid SKF bearings.

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Using a poorly conceived idea along with bad mechanical practice is not an upgrade but rather a recipe for disaster.

Sorry to hear that, Joe. I went back and checked, and Charlie used Koyo bearings in mine. SKF used to be the top brand when I was young. I wonder if the quality is really lower now, or if yours was a one in a million failure and you're the lucky one.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

I have always used FAG German bearings, but it's been a long time since I sourced any. Is what my brother used on my H2B crank. Was never a fan of SKF, for some reason I can't recall now. FAG always had riveted cages, some SKF used folded or spot welded cages, yours were riveted though.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.

Sorry to hear that my friend. Glad you are OK.

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I Love the Smell of Blue Marble in the Morning!!!
Tim Steele in Front Royal, VA
Home of the Phoenix Project
Stay in it when it comes on the pipe, no need to be scared...

Hate to hear that Joe. Your engines are always top notch. We sell a lot of SKF auto bearings at the NAPA store I work at. A good many of them come back as defective.

Dang Joe! Hate that this happened to you but glad you are OK. Were you twisting the throttle good when it happened?

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1972 Kawasaki H2 Mach IV (Candytone Blue),1984 Yamaha RZ350 (KRR- Yellow/Black), 2004 Honda Helix (Clipper Yellow).

“Jeff and Chris are THE MEN!”
RIP John E. Evans

I had addressed some of the issues that kept me from riding it relatively long distances, I had just taken it out for a 140 mile ride, and it started hammering the last 5 miles, still running good just mad a lot of noise.

In a way I’m glad there was a definite problem and not just an I wonder what happened situation.

New pistons, another machined head and a Charlie Smith crank and it should be even better than it was. Even at this age I’m still learning.

No more SKF bearings in my future!

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Using a poorly conceived idea along with bad mechanical practice is not an upgrade but rather a recipe for disaster.

Your post and info will definitely help others Joe. No doubt it will return at your skilled hands better than ever!

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1972 Kawasaki H2 Mach IV (Candytone Blue),1984 Yamaha RZ350 (KRR- Yellow/Black), 2004 Honda Helix (Clipper Yellow).

“Jeff and Chris are THE MEN!”
RIP John E. Evans

You are too kind, but thanks for the vote of confidence!

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Using a poorly conceived idea along with bad mechanical practice is not an upgrade but rather a recipe for disaster.

Years ago, Hurley and I used to have contests rebuilding crankshafts.

At the end of we running the H2-R, and into the Yamaha TZ750, we discovered FAG Norma ball bearings that had pressed in by hand plastic ball retainer/guides. We had experienced the usual rivited steel guides come apart, unrivit, not good, big messes.

We got samples, and tried them on the other bearings, SKF, etc, never have had one fail, and in some of the smaller TZ's, we run them up to 12,500 RPM's, still no problems, and you can take the bearing apart for closer inspection.

All my cranks around here have them.