Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Okay, now that the weather has cooled off and I am not so determined to ride, I started digging deeper for my infernal gear oil leak. Leak site is in fact, at the right side case, coming through case stud/nut next to the right shifter shaft penetration. I have dried every thing around it so that I am certain it is not leaking somewhere else and using the stud as a drip site. I don't really understand how oil could be coming thru there. I would've thought that the case top and bottom are machined surfaces that once bolted together, no oil could seep thru around the stud. I am at an impass on how in the world to stop the slow leak. Any thoughts?
Thanks for any advice you can provide.

_________________
You are not old until you have more regrets than dreams! - John Barrymore (rephrased)

75 H1
78 CB400II Hawk
78 KE175

My VW leaked through the studs quite regularly. Imperfections in the case half machining allow oil to creep around the stud and down the threads. Try putting some silicone(or other sealant of your choice) on the stud then putting the washer and nut back on. Usually works for me. The nylon ring of a shakeproof nut can also sometimes act as a seal on the threads, so a nylock nut might be worth a try.

Steve, where the leak is, is at the case split, and I take it that it is a 6mm transmission stud, and NOT a large main stud.

It would be that sealer didn't get put on that one stud boss whenever the cases were buttoned up the last time they were apart. If it is just that one stud, I'd take the nut and washers off the stud, then, clean, clean, clean with contact cleaner, get it dead dry, then, fill the stud hole around the stud with Tree-Bond 1194, put the washers and nub back on, and give it a couple of days to set up. Should stop the leak.

Thanks for the replys. I have some time today and will take a stab at trying to stop the leak. It is the 6mm stud. I think I wil try the Three Bond, silicone degrades rapidly when exposed to petroleum products. I am considering removing my engine today and cleaning the frame and everything else, I just don't know how heavy the engine is or what it will take to lift it out of the frame. I hate doing this because if a nice day comes up I'd be wanting to ride! The bike is very dirty from RIDING, It 's not a showpiece. Oh, and for those who'd like to know, I do occasionally twist the throttle . But generally, I am pretty tame.

Another delima is, the brakes really suck, but I'd like to keep the bike as original as possible. Any good ways to improve what is there without deviating much from stock? Sometimes it really makes your B*TT pucker.

_________________
You are not old until you have more regrets than dreams! - John Barrymore (rephrased)

75 H1
78 CB400II Hawk
78 KE175

An H1 engine is quite easy to lift. It's also surprising how quickly you can remove and reinstall it. The brake dilemma has been discussed a lot and the simple answer is to buy a caliper from an EX 500 or 250 Ninja. They can be had for $20 on eBay and the adaptor can be made following the plans found here:

http://www.kawtriple.com/mraxl/caliper/EX.jpg