Looney Cylinders wrote:
Anything special with the installed rod bearings? (The stock non silver plated needle cages have been reported to break above about 10,500rpm).
Steel main bearing cages can spot weld a pit on the ball, usually as a result of free acceleration combined with high rpm (missed shift). With time the pit then turns to a crater and bearing failure results. I suspect most main bearing/cage failures start from a corrosion pit (rust).
Why did you choose rubber seals? (It seems lab seals are all the rage these days)..
J
Don't know anything about the rod bearings other than all parts are new.
I prefer Vesrah rod kits over Toko. According to Chris these are named Long (hopefully they are std length
).
What you say about bearing failure is pretty much the same Leo is preaching.
According to SKF; polyamide caged bearings are specially suitable for applications where there are high acceleration, as in very rapid RPM changes.
The biggest enemy of rubber seals are aging. I never had a crank that lasted more than 4 years and I'm doing approximately 6000 miles per year.
So I figured the rubber seals would outlast other parts of the crank.
PK