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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 2:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 7:14 pm
Posts: 936
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Be aware that the weld on the end can can crack. This one cracked loose 3/4 way around, all at one time. I had a local welder tig it back up and he said the weld they had on it was sub par and didn't stick well.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 2:31 pm 

Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 6:06 pm
Posts: 1135
Location: Honolulu
This happened on my KH400 awhile ago. My error, I tightened the headpipe too much and there wasn't enough give for the pipe to move around, thus it broke. A welder wrapped it with a thin layer of steel, lesson learned.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 3:47 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9826
Location: North Central NC
usernameandpassword wrote:
I had a local welder tig it back up and he said the weld they had on it was sub par and didn't stick well.


Welders always say that welds done by someone else are no good. :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 7:14 pm
Posts: 936
Location: Martinsburg, WV
The weld looked ok to me. I'm not much of a fan on the end can type pipes because this can happen. Just glad I was right around the corner from the house when it decided to let go. :thumbup:

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74 H2B with reeds and 34mm carbs
75 S3A Ram Air with reeds and 30mm carbs
73 S2A (wife's bike)
71 Yammi RT1B
83 HD Sportster
03 Yammi R1
06 Kaw 750 Vulcan (wife’s bike)
12 Yammi vstar 250 (wife’s bike)


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 4:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:00 pm
Posts: 971
Location: Eagle Wisconsin
Jim wrote:
usernameandpassword wrote:
I had a local welder tig it back up and he said the weld they had on it was sub par and didn't stick well.


Welders always say that welds done by someone else are no good. :lol:


All the welds on k2 chambers alway look good.
Isn't it hard to get a TIG weld to NOT stick and look good??? I really don't know...and would like too :)

Or was it not TIG in the first place


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 6:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 6:26 pm
Posts: 901
Location: Zionsville,PA
demus wrote:
Jim wrote:
usernameandpassword wrote:
I had a local welder tig it back up and he said the weld they had on it was sub par and didn't stick well.


Welders always say that welds done by someone else are no good. :lol:


All the welds on k2 chambers alway look good.
Isn't it hard to get a TIG weld to NOT stick and look good??? I really don't know...and would like too :)

Or was it not TIG in the first place


Almost any type of weld can be made to look good while lacking in structural integrity. If welded a little too cool at the root (base), it can look great and break right off.

Jim's right, welders hardly even compliment another welder's work.

Jeff


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 7:22 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9826
Location: North Central NC
Drummers are like that too. I know several, and when two are in the same room together and one is playing, the other will be quietly explaining how bad it is. :lol:

I can't remember who it was, but a guy in Australia bought a set of chambers from me. Rod had gotten a set from me, and had me ship each one in halves, because the Australian postal regulations don't allow packages big enough to fit whole chambers. Then Rod had a talented welder do the last welds for him. This customer had me do the same thing. He took the six half chambers to a welder who said he'd do a great job, and who commented on how my welds were not done properly. Then he proceeded to butcher the pipes to the point that I'm not sure they were ever used.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 9:00 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
I've seen that happen to pipes when the system wasn't done right.

That said, we now have a couple of different ways the primary pipe sits on the cylinder. One is with a slip joint, the other is with a hard held flange.

The slip fit allows for a bit of slack movement between the engine and pipes, and that allows different forces between engine and pipes to go their separate ways. If an engine is solid mounted, and the pipes are solid flange mounted, the pipes need to be rubber mounted, to allow for the movement that always occurs between both engine and pipes.

We had a lot of this happen on the F5R/F9R, as they had a solid mounted engine and solid mounted pipe, with a slip fit at the flange. Even worse when the factory tried to solid moount the primary pipe to the engine. What fixed Yvon's setup was with solid mounting the engine to the frame, slip fit the pipe into the cylinder, and mount the pipe to a framework bolted to the engine, not the frame. That stopped the pipe fracturing.

We used a side Lord mount for the 500/750's, and they allowed a lot of engine movement in the chassis, slip- fits into the cylinders, but, solid pipe mounts. When we went to rubber pipe mounts to the frame on the later H2R's, pipe fracture problems stopped.

H1 is a classic, early and late engines are solid mounted in the frame. Early pipes are solid mounted to the frame, but, use a separate muffler and primary pipe, with an insulator in the junction. that insulator is also a vibration plane separator. Engine doesn't try to tear up the pipes. Later H1, same solid engine mount, one pipe, primary pipe and muffler welded together, but, mufflers are rubber mounted at their flanges to stop one vibration/movement plane from adversely effecting the other. Two different methods to attain the same end.

Of course, if the welds are sub standard, nothing will stop pipe damage.

Hawaii Mike, I can see your pipes are solid mounted at their rears, behind the weld failures. How is the engine mounted, solid, or rubber, and, primary pipes, slip fit or solid mounted in the cylinder???


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 1:01 am 

Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 6:06 pm
Posts: 1135
Location: Honolulu
KH400, I believe the engine rubber mounted. Pipes are bolted solidly to the cylinders. I've had these pipes for at least a year, just over-tightened them perhaps a week before the pipe broke. After this mishap, I loosened the pipes at the footpeg mounts significantly, even looser than they were before. That makes the footpegs want to turn down to the 6 o'clock position. I drilled a tiny hole in the footpeg mounting base and another in the mounting tab on the chamber, then wired them together (loosely) to keep the footpegs in the upright position.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 1:11 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:03 am
Posts: 4603
Location: Milang, South Australia
Just looking at Jim's post above.... I took those half-pipes to a welder here, and he said, "Hmmm, I'll see if I can do a job nearly as good as these welds"........... so I knew they would be done right, and they were! (Life is getting in the way of my project H2, a good thing, but it is still cooking along slowly!!) :thumbup:

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