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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 6:39 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
Mike, the problem with some styles of rubber mounts is they don't have a center distance collar in them. This collar literally locks solid anything passing through it, like a foot peg shaft, while still allowing the rubber mount to float.

This way, the pegs would tighten as stock, and the pipe mounts would float in the peg mounts. Also, the floating mount could be mounted in between the peg mounts and pipe mount.

Be creative.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 8:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:32 am
Posts: 615
Location: Indianapolis, IN
The hydroformed pipes I just finished on my H2B are fully rubber mounted including the cylinder to head pipe joint, has a pair of thick silicone O rings that seal and insulate the pipe from the engine vibration. Has two Lord stud type mounts, a 1" diameter one at the lower mount mostly for lateral mounting, then the main rear mount is a 1.5" diameter one in the back. I can push on the pipe and they are spongy and move freely around. When hot I can see the aft footpeg mount has deformed with the pipe expansion rearwards.


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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 10:21 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
Interesting how much they move around, and grow, isn't it.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 2:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 7:14 pm
Posts: 936
Location: Martinsburg, WV
New crack, same pipe, different location. Noticed some oil at the joint. I reckon I'll be taking this pipe back over to have it welded Monday. :( I think it's getting obvious that the end can is helping to cause the cracks. Both started on top the pipe, so it may be coming from hitting holes and such in the road and the can is wanting to shake downwards towards the street stessing the metal.

Image

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74 H2B with reeds and 34mm carbs
75 S3A Ram Air with reeds and 30mm carbs
73 S2A (wife's bike)
71 Yammi RT1B
83 HD Sportster
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06 Kaw 750 Vulcan (wife’s bike)
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9826
Location: North Central NC
The cracks are probably already there, maybe microscopic, and vibration and bumps just open them up and make them grow. Either that or something in the welding process made the area brittle. Mild steel should bend or stretch if overstressed, not crack.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 3:55 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 7:14 pm
Posts: 936
Location: Martinsburg, WV
I'm hoping the welding I'm getting done at the welding shop corrects it and it won't crack anymore. Something tells me though this isn't the last crack I'm going to see. The right side pipes, haven't had a issue with those.......yet. :?

You still selling h2 pipes Jim? I might be inclined to sell these on ebay over the winter and switch up. Not that these are bad pipes.....they work rather well. I just don't know if I like the end can pipes on this bike or would like the repop dencos. The ones for the s3 you sold me still look good. I'm thinking of stripping them and redoing the powder. The current coat has its flaws and such after the many years I've had them. Might go with a darker tint next time. It's due for paint anyways.:mrgreen:

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74 H2B with reeds and 34mm carbs
75 S3A Ram Air with reeds and 30mm carbs
73 S2A (wife's bike)
71 Yammi RT1B
83 HD Sportster
03 Yammi R1
06 Kaw 750 Vulcan (wife’s bike)
12 Yammi vstar 250 (wife’s bike)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 4:35 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9826
Location: North Central NC
Richard, I didn't mean to promote my stuff in your thread, but yes, we're making chambers. The current wait is probably about 8 weeks.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 7:55 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 7:14 pm
Posts: 936
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Jim wrote:
Richard, I didn't mean to promote my stuff in your thread, but yes, we're making chambers. The current wait is probably about 8 weeks.


I didn't feel you were......anyways your product speaks for itself. ;)

We'll see how they shake out with a touch up tomorrow. Hopefully they'll stay together.

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74 H2B with reeds and 34mm carbs
75 S3A Ram Air with reeds and 30mm carbs
73 S2A (wife's bike)
71 Yammi RT1B
83 HD Sportster
03 Yammi R1
06 Kaw 750 Vulcan (wife’s bike)
12 Yammi vstar 250 (wife’s bike)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 8:49 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
There are a lot of factors in the pictures of pipes and failures to look into, stuff like the weight of the silencer past the pipe mount, and the vibration that is there with that extra weight, the pipe mount type, flange design, all sorts of factors that fight each other, and adversely influence cracking, breaking, disaster, etc.

On the one pipe that came apart just in front of the solid mounting, there is the vibration/stress from the front end of the pipe, versus the weight and reactive vibration from past the mount caused by the silencer, all fighting themselves.

Best scenario is to sit down, look at it very carefully, figure out how to not have one vibration/stress fight against another, eliminate one of the stresses completely, let everything work in the same direction. Not so easy, but, doable.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 2:43 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 3:06 am
Posts: 4364
Location: PARIS FRANCE
Solid rear mounting pipes break always with tapered exhausts flanges :mrgreen:


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