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 Post subject: Power Dynamo conversion
PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 9:11 am 

Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:28 am
Posts: 13
Location: ontario, canada
Hi. I don't spend much time on this board but drop by from Canada every so often. Does anyone have, or have any experience, with these Power Dynamo ignition conversion for early H1? It looks good and with the cost of distributor caps alone, makes good financial sense.
Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 9:34 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
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Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
http://www.kawasakitriplesclub.net/foru ... =8&t=14866

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 10:40 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 3:06 am
Posts: 4364
Location: PARIS FRANCE
You should be registed to have access of this part of KTCUK forum but some UK guys had isssues with power Dynamo on their triples and came black to original ignition.
Some frenchs of the french Suzuki triple club had also issues and rétro fited to genuine points :geek:


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 11:34 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Hi Guys,
i rarely comment on other peoples efforts to make parts for triples, but i feel i must bring this to your attention.
POWER DYNAMO IGNITION KITS

http://www.powerdynamo.biz/eng/systems/ ... 63main.htm

BEWARE!!...these ignitions are rubbish. they look and feel fantastic. well engineered, decent fit, seems to be an answer to all your ignition problems, but they just dont work well. I bought one for my baby h2 which now has a 500 engine in. It starts and ticks over perfect ,but anything more than 1/4 throttle and the spark breaks down and misfires. it will not run over 5000 rpm at all. it will rev up in neutral but under load it just breaks down. They even admit this on their own website

http://www.powerdynamo.biz/eng/kb/triples.htm

the problem is ,that like the boyer bransden ignition, it fires all 3 coils every time, and it just cannot recharge the coils fast enough. in essence at 6000 rpm each coil is trying to run at 18000 rpm. it just cant handle it.

i proved this by taking their own advice and reducing the plug gap to a ridiculous 0.3mm gap and it immediately ran loads better. the down side of this in a 2 stroke is that the plugs foul twice as easily, mine fouled within 10 minutes.

now i would normally take this on the chin and chalk it up to experience, but i have just had a phone call from a customer asking for my advice. his bike has been running perfectly with my pipes for a couple of years. he has just fitted one of these ignitions to his H1D and experienced the exact same problems that i have.
My advice was to put the stock stator back on and buy an all in one box from Jim at Lakeland, which is exactly the route i am taking with my baby H2.
i have used Jims stuff for years and NEVER had so much as a fouled plug.

i know a lot of you are thinking, just go back to stock, but some owners get befuddled with the stock boxes, we have all been there...including me!


happy tripling

Higgs out.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 12:13 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 11:04 am
Posts: 3490
Location: Capitol of Ca, USA
Probably the best solution, aside from spending the money to acquire all of the separate components, would be to retrofit the H2 ignition system onto the early H1, and eliminating the old distributor set-up altogether. The 73 H1D basically had the identical iggy, with the exception of minor differences such as a rotor with a differently positioned woodruff key groove, which should actually be a "slip-on" for your early H1 crank, and I believe the rest of the boxes will bolt to existing threaded bosses on the early H1 frame. I'm thinking you could still retain the early clutch cover and distributor/oil pump cover if you wanted to keep that early appearance, but just cover up the plug wire hole. For the box(es) you could just purchase brand new ones from Jim like Moo suggested, so really you'd need to locate the stator, H1D rotor, Jim's boxes, and figure out the added wires needed to hook all of this up.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 1:13 pm 

Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:28 am
Posts: 13
Location: ontario, canada
OK, thanks for everyone's replies. I do have Jim's iggy box and am pleased with it. I was just looking for a way to eliminate the distributor and the fact that anyone with a cap on ebay thinks they will be able to retire on what they can sell it for. I'll just stick with my stash of early ignition parts then.
Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 8:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:32 am
Posts: 615
Location: Indianapolis, IN
If I couldn't get a part like the H1A distributor cap, and there will be a day when they are no longer available, I would draw it in CAD and 3D print it, just a thought.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 8:41 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:08 pm
Posts: 1901
Location: Campbellville Ontario
DGA wrote:
If I couldn't get a part like the H1A distributor cap, and there will be a day when they are no longer available, I would draw it in CAD and 3D print it, just a thought.


What material? I asked some folks about this - polycarbonate is the easy material but not dimensionally stable enough.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 11:43 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:32 am
Posts: 615
Location: Indianapolis, IN
I like to print in PLA, while not the highest temp rating, it seems stable enough that I use it for engine mounted parts on my XV750 cafe bike. ABS is stronger but shrinks while printing, although a part like the H1A cap would be ok I bet. Have to design it in two pieces and bond the brass inserts in when you glue it together.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 10:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:45 pm
Posts: 328
Location: West Coast
PLA melts in water so I doubt it is oil and fuel resistant. ABS conducts static well so would probably cross fire. Most glues would be conductive as well so that would take some research to find one that would work. I have been using PETG with great success but conductivity is unknown, it is resistant to fuel (I soaked a piece in gas for a few days) so that could be a player.


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