Kawi2strokes.com Forum

My 70 H1 sat for over a month before I started it up one day and blue smoke roared out of it for a little while until I burned it all off. I'm used to it smoking a little when cold, but when I let it sit for the month, it seemed to really pour out the blue smoke. Mind you, I had even dialed down the pump cable adjustment just a hair a few rides back. So, I was wondering: if the pump does hold residual pressure when the bike isn't running, maybe my oil line check valves were too low of a pop-off pressure allowing oil to dribble in.....? What do you think?

70 H1, new crank/seals/top end.... 1000 miles on new engine


Rich

It's almost certain that your check valves are not sealing properly. Even if their cracking pressure is too low, they should seal the little bit of pressure from the height of the oil tank, so it's probably the same problem almost everyone has eventually... dirty or worn surfaces in the valves. You can disassemble the early H2 type and clean them, as well as stretch or replace the springs to bring the cracking pressure back up. Then test them by filling and hanging overnight to see if they drip. I don't know if the early H1 check valves come apart or not.

I went through all this and a year later they were leaking again, so I put a Swagelok valve in the tank line, with an ignition interlock that kills the spark unless the valve is fully open. No more smoky starts or risk of bending connecting rods.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Jim you crack me up --- of COURSE you did this!!!!!! The stuff you do is always amazing to me.

"I put a Swagelok valve in the tank line, with an ignition interlock that kills the spark unless the valve is fully open"

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...

And when will this kit be available Jim?

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"Only cheat the cheaters, boy - you can't cheat an honest man!" Mordecai Jones - The Flim Flam Man.

Hahahahahaah!!!! LOL!!


And when will this kit be available Jim? [/quote]

Jim: So.... the old hang and drip test..... That makes sense that just the gravity from the reservoir would dribble oil. I do remember having the valves apart to clean and gently stretching the springs a bit, but I was REALLY gentle and had no idea of the actual pop off pressure. Would it be safe enough to play with the springs a bit until the valves don't and NOT DO a fancy pop-off pressure test? Or am I asking for trouble?

Ha, it would sell only to the 1% of us who don't keep triples stock.

Rich, I wouldn't mess with the springs without testing cracking pressure. There is some information about setting up a simple pressure test rig on the resource site.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

All my H2B check valves have dead springs and are wide open, so I modified the crankcase banjo bolts and put the check valves in there. I like the idea of being able to service them like that. For the bowl lines I put the valves in the bowls themselves.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.

Jim, all things considered, the solenoid valve idea sounds like the easiest and most dependable way to go. Can you elaborate on the ignition interlock set up? What did you use for that?
Thanks, Rich

It's not a solenoid valve, just a 1/4 turn Swagelok valve that I added a miniature lever type switch to. The switch closes if the valve is not fully open, and connects the black and white wire of the CDI unit to ground, killing spark. There are valves with switches available, but I already had this valve and switch.

You could use a 12v solenoid valve that opens when the ignition is turned on, but a broken wire or bad connection would ruin the engine, so I elected to use the manual valve with an interlock.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

pix!