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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 12:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 3:23 pm
Posts: 89
Location: Buford, GA USA
saint barry wrote:
Any chance of getting a picture of someone sitting on the bike ??? Thanks


Sure, may take a few days. Might I ask why you want that? If you're looking for location they move your feet back about 5" and up about 2 1/2" depending on where you have the stock pegs now. Position is not as far back as the Raask which is excessive. Position is what I feel is a good compromise and should work up to about 6ft in height. If you're taller than that your legs may be cramped. To make them fully adjustable would increase the price significantly and I'm trying to keep a price that most people can afford.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 6:22 pm 

Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:56 pm
Posts: 1188
The reason I asked I wanted to see how far forward the rear sets lean the rider !!!! I've always like clip ons but when I tried them on my 75H2 with stock pegs it just didn't work for me !!! The rear sets may work with clip ons !!!


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 6:27 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:26 am
Posts: 797
They do!!

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 8:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3821
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
saint barry wrote:
The reason I asked I wanted to see how far forward the rear sets lean the rider !!!! I've always like clip ons but when I tried them on my 75H2 with stock pegs it just didn't work for me !!! The rear sets may work with clip ons !!!


I'd like to try rear sets and clip-ons or even try them with my old clubmans!

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 4:31 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 3:06 am
Posts: 4364
Location: PARIS FRANCE
as you know am Raask rearset with ace bar on my H2A: nearly perfect but am a little to much on the rear (and am 1.76 meter high).
I love clips on and had some on my K triples on the 70s. But now with the vibrations I prefer ace bar which is rubber mounting.
But a H2 or an early H1 with clips on is awesome (but not the riding position if you haven'i also rearset :crazy: :mrgreen:.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 11:00 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 11:04 am
Posts: 3490
Location: Capitol of Ca, USA
husson73 wrote:
as you know am Raask rearset with ace bar on my H2A: nearly perfect but am a little to much on the rear (and am 1.76 meter high).
I love clips on and had some on my K triples on the 70s. But now with the vibrations I prefer ace bar which is rubber mounting.
But a H2 or an early H1 with clips on is awesome (but not the riding position if you haven'i also rearset :crazy: :mrgreen:.

For us Americans...1.76 meter = 5.77 ft. :wave:

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 11:12 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 3:23 pm
Posts: 89
Location: Buford, GA USA
Jeff wrote:
JimH wrote:
BarryB wrote:
Really nice :thumbup: Let me know when you have them for H2/A.
bb


The early H2 frames are more difficult since the frame triangle is different. We will have to use the swingarm bolt and the stock footpeg mount for the mounting plate which means we will have to supply a new swingarm bolt as it will need to be longer to accommodate the mounting plates.

Its going to require more engineering but I'm already working on it.

Try the swingarm bolt from a Z1 or a KZ1000. Same diameter and nut as the H2, but it's longer by about 1/2 inch...maybe a bit longer.

Jeff


Mounting plates are 12mm thick on each side so would need around 1" in additional length. I already have a company that makes swingarm pivot bolts to length so sourcing is not a problem - just cost. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 11:15 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 3:23 pm
Posts: 89
Location: Buford, GA USA
Ja-Moo wrote:
I will have to look at a early frame, but I "think" you maybe able to get away with supporting most of the weight by a tab that rests against the bottom triangle tube, making for a lot thinner swinger mount thickness. And not have to use a longer swinger bolt.


Never cared for designs like that. Not stable enough for me. All my rearset designs have a minimum of 2 bolted mounting points with a mounting plate thickness of 12mm minimum to get a solid, rigid mount.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 11:35 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3821
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
JimH wrote:
Ja-Moo wrote:
I will have to look at a early frame, but I "think" you maybe able to get away with supporting most of the weight by a tab that rests against the bottom triangle tube, making for a lot thinner swinger mount thickness. And not have to use a longer swinger bolt.


Never cared for designs like that. Not stable enough for me. All my rearset designs have a minimum of 2 bolted mounting points with a mounting plate thickness of 12mm minimum to get a solid, rigid mount.


+1 :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 12:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
This is a 72 500 frame, are the earlier 500 frames the same?

Image

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