Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Leo does a few of my designs. I did not know they were up there in that picture. They were not meant to resemble anything or any other pipes,I worked them out myself years ago, and there is several different designs, also one learns more with time . I would have to know which set they are to answer your question correctly. I do tend to value not revving the snot out of the engine for no reason, but that's just me .

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I am just a man working in a tin shed.

Can anyone explain what will happen if I run the Yamaha R-6 shock that I am using without changing the dampening with a spring heavier spring??
Stock spring is about 500lb and the one I am going to try is 850lb?

Also has anyone rebuilt a rear shock themselves that could give me a thumb up or thumbs down on trying it myself…I'm not afraid to try or destroy trying it
I already have the spring off, looks like it just screws apart, except for the gas pressure and how to recharge it.

I know of some bike shops that will recharge shocks, but you might look up the pressure, from what i remember some are very highly pressurized.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Demus..........my misfire I had may be different then yours..........mine was almost hard to notice...........when taking off from a stop and shifting 1, 2 3, etc...........it would have an ever so slight misfire around 2500 to 3000 RPM (like a slight one time blip)...........I backed the Zeel Off from 27 degrees advance to 26.5 (at 3000 RPM)............it went away ..........I tested by plugging in my MAP2 wire using Boruts stock H2 curve (just pulled over, lifted the seat, plugged the lead in, and retest).........I thought it would be jetting, but nope, little too much advance.........(for my pipes, port and engine config) I then redid my custom MAP and cut it back to 26.5 MAX.........no misfire

(I just read you re-pinned the rotor I believe, Interesting, should work as well, was gonna ask.........) did you dremel the 3 holes on the plate to give you a bit more turn (advance) for the pickups.........I had to clip a bit off the pickup wire holders as they are short.........I think that's a good idea just to have some advance to play with........I can get 27 MAX and that's it (stock B plate, turned all the way, pickups all the way also)...........may MOD the plate one day............will try some different MAPs when I get the K2TEC's on it.

Great Info all you triple "Wizards".........great reading and gives one a lot to think about.......thanks for posting

THX Phil

Hi Phil,
I did dremel the pick-up mounting plate (not the big plate) on just (1) of my pick-ups to be able to get them all exactly the same. The nice part of moving the hole/slot in the back of the signal rotor is that I can now have a lot less tension on the black ground wires that go to the pick up. I also had to rework the little holders on the white wires to the pick-ups just a bit to get enough slack in those wires to turn the plate, those have less stress now also.

If this mod works, which I think it will, if I ever did another Zeel I would re-drill or re-mill the back of the signal rotor and NOT rotate the plate. It wasn't hard to do, I worked harder trying to get the plate rotated than moving the location of the slot on the signal generator. But I haven't tested it yet, and as much as I "think" it will work and from what others posted suggesting it "will work" I need to see it work myself before I would recommend it!!!

If increasing the transfer duration, changing the Zeel to get a better curve without the misfire, and getting the rear shock to work..if all those work 50% better than they did, I will have a very happy H2!

I really need to know how shocks work, have been studying. Seems if I use a stiffer spring I would need more rebound dampening and less compression dampening , but something tells me it isn't a directly linear…???

I was thinking that one of the problems with the shock I have it it may have lost its pressure.
There seems to be nothing straight forward about shocks especially the re-charging or why its charged in the first place, but my knowledge is SOOOO lacking.

I really should have paid better attention in school to math…. it seems its the key to a whole bunch of stuff I cannot do
I don't know if it would have helped it seems Im perpetually stupid

Thought I would add that I think I may be wasting my time on the shock….I just need to save some $$ and get a custom shock that will work, they are very specialized items especially once your into a custom configuration.

Demus

Hole in the Signal Rotor.......huh, good idea !..........makes sense

I have 1 pickup thats off 1.7 degrees, may dremel it to match the others

That bikes gonna be wicked

THX Phil

Should be putting the H2 back together very soon to start another season…. Winter has its drawbacks but it does give a guy time to fiddle

I have been playing with the rear shock for a bit now, different springs and lots of questions
Posted some of it here; viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11339
I bought a 1250lbs spring that will work with the spacers I made for the shock, also bought a thrust bearing that I am going to mount above the spring to aid in adjusting the preload. With all the extra spring pressure of the 950lb spring I figure it will help with the 1250 lbs spring. The shock will undoubtedly need to be re-valved.
I also had the engineer we use at work figure the load on the plate holding the top shock mount and his exact words were "are you actually planing on riding it?" He said it is well overloaded.
I am not sure he is right but what do I know
The reason I asked him is because I have had a couple people say it looked a bit flimsy, its just a 3/16" steel plate, I have talked about it before, it has been a concern of mine from the start.
So I am making a couple brackets up to help it out.

Here is the latest spring and the bearing;



And here is the shock mount and the mock up of the bracket, it will connect the back motor mounts and wrap under the frame member and will be connected with a longer bolt on the shock mount with spacers in between, it still needs a bit of work. Some rounding and reshaping before I make the steel ones nothing original or sexy just functional (I hope) ;

1250lb Hyperco spring on 99' Yamaha r-6 shock, using a rz350 swing arm and linkage on a 72' H2 frame
This was and is a project that is way over complicated for what it is worth for me, although I have learned a bit and now know if I was to do it myself from scratch I would be very careful to get a mono shock rear end and linkage and copy it exactly as the factory original the stuff came off of !
I would suppose there are plenty of guys who can do a custom job correctly but it was and is WAY over my head.

But I did finally achieve the proper amount of static sag and the proper amount of sag with my fat A$$ on it. Also cobbled together the brackets to help support it (needed or not I don't know).
They aren't pretty but a little black paint and no one will see them to much. And considering I did them with an old lightweight bandsaw and a grinder and a drill press with a chuck that wobbles, it is what it is…not to proud. And the shock spring JUST clears and as far as I can tell will be ok through the range of swing arm motion, but its uncomfortably tight. I will be checking out after the first ride for wear marks.

Looking forward to a running drivable bike in the next couple weeks

Can't wait for the driving report, Your bike is gonna be a killer machine

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72 H2, 72 H1B, 74 H2, 74 H2 Cafê Racer, 71 F8 Bison