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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 10:42 am 

Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:46 pm
Posts: 1334
Location: Kingston, N.Y.
Well that more reasonable than I thought 8-) and I already have the Black Label :lol: , post stored away for my future H1 resto.

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1975 S3 project bike
1974 H1 project bike
1972 Yamaha R5
1974 Yamaha RD350


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 12:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:44 am
Posts: 1159
Location: Bangor, PA
Have you worked out adapters for the calipers yet? I have some 2 pot Brembos that are similar to those calipers that I made adapters for. It will be interesting to see what you come up with.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 1:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 3:22 pm
Posts: 326
Location: Holmestrand, NORWAY
oxford wrote:
Have you worked out adapters for the calipers yet? I have some 2 pot Brembos that are similar to those calipers that I made adapters for. It will be interesting to see what you come up with.


No, I haven't.

I would like for them to be a flat piece (no steps and no L/R versions) and I would prefer to make them out of Aluminum.
That is why I have settled for 25mm offset on my rotor/adapter combo. Stock brake rotor offset is 29mm, and the difference will add to the thickness of the caliper adapter.
If I can get the thickness up to 8mm or more then I'll comfortable making it in Aluminum.

PK


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 2:15 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:44 am
Posts: 1159
Location: Bangor, PA
You should be ok with less offset, just make sure that you check clearance with the spokes and the calipers. I am assuming the rotors are a larger dia. than stock so that should help out with the spoke clearance.

Here's a pic of the adapters that I made. If I get some time I will take pics of them mounted to the forks with the calipers. They are flat but do require spacers that go between them and the caliper. They could have been made one piece without the spacers but I have time constraints when making government projects while at work. I belive these are 3/8" (10mm) thick and I did make these manually with a milling machine, no cnc/waterjet here.

Image


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 3:17 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 3:22 pm
Posts: 326
Location: Holmestrand, NORWAY
Nice caliper brackets. Do you have threaded holes in them?

I will probably go for waterjetting. It's the least amount of work for me.

You actually made me doubt myself there for a minute with the clerances.
I have measured this once before but still I had to go out and measure again just now. I removed the outer brake pad and put a 3.5 mm thick piece of metal between the inner pad and the stock disk (Dia 296 mm). Clearance to the spokes was now 4.2 mm. I have calculated that this clearance will increase by 2.8 mm when using 320 mm brake disks and 18'' rim. So in theory I should end up with 7.0 mm clerance to the spokes.

....and I see now that I can make the bracket 10 mm thick if I want to.

PK


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 3:39 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:44 am
Posts: 1159
Location: Bangor, PA
No, there are no threaded holes in the plates. These bolt to the outside of the of the lugs on the forks, so a bolt with a nut would be used. The brackets for the calipers are threaded, so the other set of holes in the plates are just through holes for the bolt. They mount up similar to these. http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/caliper/nissin.jpg
From the way it sounds, it seems like you are going to be mounting the plates on the inside of the of the original fork lugs.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 3:48 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 3:22 pm
Posts: 326
Location: Holmestrand, NORWAY
Nice caliper brackets. Do you have threaded holes in them?

I will probably go for waterjetting. It's the least amount of work for me.

P.K. wrote:
You actually made me doubt myself there for a minute with the clerances.
I have measured this once before but still I had to go out and measure again just now. I removed the outer brake pad and put a 3.5 mm thick piece of metal between the inner pad and the stock disk (Dia 296 mm). Clearance to the spokes was now 4.2 mm. I have calculated that this clearance will increase by 2.8 mm when using 320 mm brake disks and 18'' rim. So in theory I should end up with 7.0 mm clerance to the spokes.

....and I see now that I can make the bracket 10 mm thick if I want to.
Ooops. that was wrong.

Offset is measured from the mounting face to the OUTSIDE of the disc. I have 4 mm less offset and I have 4 mm thinner disc, so the distance between the spokes and the disc will be the same as stock.
In other words, plenty of clearance.

PK


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 3:22 pm
Posts: 326
Location: Holmestrand, NORWAY
oxford wrote:
No, there are no threaded holes in the plates. These bolt to the outside of the of the lugs on the forks, so a bolt with a nut would be used. The brackets for the calipers are threaded, so the other set of holes in the plates are just through holes for the bolt. They mount up similar to these. http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/caliper/nissin.jpg
From the way it sounds, it seems like you are going to be mounting the plates on the inside of the of the original fork lugs.


Yes, I'm gonna have the bracket on the inside of the fork lugs.
I'm also swapping the fork legs so that the calipers will be behind the legs.

PK


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 3:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:44 am
Posts: 1159
Location: Bangor, PA
P.K. wrote:
I'm also swapping the fork legs so that the calipers will be behind the legs.


Yes, I set mine up for the calipers behind the forks as well. I will like to see these come together, I don't think I could have put the plates on the inside of the forks with the way the mounts for the calipers are.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 4:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 3:22 pm
Posts: 326
Location: Holmestrand, NORWAY
Since my previous assumptions (and measuring) was wrong I see now that maximum thickness for my bracket will be 6 - 7 mm.
Based on this I will probably use stainless steel in my brackets.

I just thought of a neat idea.
When it's time to measure out the brackets I'll just put air pressure on the calipers to hold them in place while measuring. I can then probably just tap on them to move them around and into position.

PK


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