Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Sounds like the idle mixture is too lean, slow to warm up and lacking bottom end response.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.

Soflh2b any problems with your fuel height? I know you set them to the maximum , I’m just getting a bit out of the left carb if I’m on the side stand might go a mm past max to 25mm

Used my mercury sticks tonight on it worked well , I didn’t compore the results with the Uni Sync , I should have. Oh well I’ll be back at them need to do some slight jetting.

Set them to the low side of the float level range to try to offset the higher fuel level at the pilots as they are at the front of the float bowl. Main should not have much of a difference as it is pretty much centered in the float bowl.....

My experiences are, if it starts and runs cold, its more than likely rich in the idle circuit and will act inappropriately when at operating temperature, especially upon deceleration. Heavily ported motors like mine are notorious for "weaker low ends", thus the long intake track and to sync carbs as close as possible to get as much all around performance as possible.

Yes lower fuel height .. I’m at the lowest fuel height requimended for vm34’s
Higher float tang height off gasket surface lower fuel height.
I’m going to go down a size on my pilots and raise the needle a clip or 2 and put some serious miles on this weekend , looking forward to it!

I've had the opposite experience I guess. If it needs a lot of choke to start and run, then it's lean, and you do say it's soft on the bottom, lacking response, so why not try a quarter turn in on the idle mixture screws and see if you like it?
I generally ignore the plug readings for most conditions for street bikes, rideability is the key, if it won't throttle cleanly and if you can't open the throttle at a fairly quick rate and the motor responds as it should, then there is still tuning to do. Race conditions usually demand more fuel with higher loads. Fuel demands follow power made at any portion of RPM.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.

Here is a bit of a ride report. Went on what eded up being a 70 mile ride and HATED it when it ended!

First the looks: I had several groups of people gather around it when I was pumping gas. 3 of them asked to take pictures they ranged from a older gentelman who was a serious bicyclist and was on a ride through our lovely Kettle Moraine district to a very large (made me look bit tiny ) Harley rider in his late 30's or maybe 40 to a young kid early 20's
They all commented on the exhaust and the orange color , so those must be the eye catchers. One wanted to know what type of coating was on the exhaust and where I purchased the exhaust…. I think he was both impressed and disappointed on my answer Custom made and the coating BBQ rattle can paint, the BBQ paint just doesn't have the high end "ring" as powder or ceramic.

Now for the ride , its has transformed the bike, nothing massive or earth shattering in the max power department the Spec II's made power but you had to rev them to the moon. These WTF's make power but they make it much smoother and more linear and it all happens at less RPM!
Also I had an annoying flat spot at 5000-5500 with the Spec II's, it's gone.
The low end power isn't a lot more than the spec II's, more the same than different but they need much less throttle to get the rpms up so it seems to want to go through the rev range faster.
On my way home I and found myself between 5000 and 8000 rpm (between 60 and 90 mph) with gobs of great linear power to use….my biggest problem now could be tickets in stead of riding around a flat spot, it is a much much more fun bike to ride than before.

The angled carbs work great at speed they do not shake at all, at idle they shake a bit due to the rubber manifolds being a bit less ridged than stock but some work is needed on the carbs and the kickstand, You cannot run it on the kick stand gas drips out of the left carb because the lean and the carb angle. The kickstand needs some sort of retainer spring or something to hold it in the down position its a bit floppy and the bike almost fell over because of it, #1 on the list. I had nothing but problems with the kickstand due to the frame modifications and the fact that my chain needs to be spaced 1" out to clear the mono shock rear end so the exhaust needed to be clearances and spaced …anyway kickstand big PITA maybe I should roll it up against a tree

What gear were you in to be going 8,000 at 90?

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Demus
Platform shoe on the stand.

Myself and other board members have used "S" series side stands as they are longer.