H2RTuner wrote:
Ah, the late George Roche, or, George Jareau, Rene Roche, Rene Jareau, he jumped from name to name for decades. He was a racer that originally came out of the Sacramento area, then, to Santa Ana, and was one of the original non-factory Kawasaki triples road race campaigners in ACA, AFM, and even AMA racing.
His last private company was GRIP, George Roche Iconoclastic Products (although many thought it should have had an E on the end, for GRIPE, which he did constantly about NOT being a full factory Team Hansen/Team Kawasaki race rider. He used to build some very bizarre stuff, and try to get impossible stuff to work, usually failing. Things like GRIP pipes, only bad issue, the stinger take off was in the PRIMARY PIPE, "after all, the stinger is only a pressure bleed, NOT a tuning device". Then, there was his insistence of using giant carbs, like trying to fit and tune 44 or 45mm specials on H1 engines he ported into oblivion.
George finally want back to the Sacramento area twords the end of his life, worked in a couple of Kawasaki shops, one Yamaha, and slipped into controlled substances, of which, he got too far into, got arrested, and ended up ending his own life. He was unique, still a friend, and a real PITA at times, he just got mixed up in stuff he couldn't get out of, and took the easiest, most unfortunate path.
That said, you have a set or Roche modified street bike cases. The welded closed trans vent and clutch cover was to emulate the H1R/H2R fill/vent, which was done in the oil filler cap. Another thing to look at if you pull the clutch cover off, is the shift claw. If it is still a street claw, it will have the under drum lever only. If it is, in fact, an H1R claw, also used in H2R, it will have an upper claw. much the same as S and some F series claws. To fit that race shaft and claw, the oil ledge above the shift shaft that drips oil onto the rear gear sets, will be machined back into the upper case, to clear the upper claw.
Now, as far as the oiling for a 3 hose pump, that is the best pump to use, NOT the 4 outlet ones. 4 outlet pumps need to have the carb oilers fed into the bowls, NOT the bores, and there needs to be tubes inside the bowls to do it right, so the oil travels up the pipes, then out into the fuel in the bowl, making the bowl contents premix.
The idea was to mimic the H2R setups, pumps at minimum on the crank end, and premix for the rest of the engine. Never did work as well as the 3 outlet pumps do.
The 3 hole systems are MUCH better, but, with a caveat. The connector hole in the case ISN'T regulated in the early cases, there are two oil orifii, both set to deliver a metered amount of oil to both the lower end and into the intake port. The lower end metering restriction is a brass drilled hole in the bottom of the cylinder end of the oil line banjo bolt. the cylinder port end is a brass metering hole in the oil port between the base gasket area and intake port floor. They are usually somewhere near .013 inch. I use an Allen set screw, drilled correctly, then placed into a stepped hole drilled passage in the barrel, larger on the gasket side than the port side, so the insert will not travel out of the hole, into the port.
To drill the case delivery holes, I built my own fixture, has a drill guide in it, and mimics a Kreg wood drilling tool, angled, drill is guided, and tool bolts down to the cases, via the cylinder studs.
Me, I'd run the 3 outlet pump, no premix.
Is there any welding in the areas behind the cylinders, between the crank housings and trans case? If so,m that was the weakest point in H2 cases, they crack there when high rpms and crank alignment whip come up at higher rpms. If you don't plan to run the engine past the 6 to 6.5K revs, you probably won't need the welding, if you run trhem up to the 10.7K to 11.1K rpm levels we ran some of them, weld, weld, weld. YES, they will run that high, but, it takes one heck of a LOT of work to do so...dubiously safely.
Thanks so much for the wealth of information Dave. I hoping since they are late cases that holes weren't drilled to the cylinders. I'm thinking if they where drilled
he probably welded them shut. If they are welded shut it will be a pain to drill. Good idea on using a jig, I was thinking of something to help guide it.
I'll only be happy once I pull it all apart and see what was done. Never ever have liked premix on a street bike. Looked around for any early H2 oil lines in
my garage but I think they all went to Danny when he bought my last 72 project last year. Other than the strange mods done to the cases this bike is
really nice.