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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 1:00 pm 
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Ja-Moo wrote:
I "thought" hydrogen embrittlement was just in steel............ :?:

True

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 1:03 pm 
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mraxl wrote:
Ja-Moo wrote:
I "thought" hydrogen embrittlement was just in steel............ :?:

True


That begs another question, as it's so easy do do, why isn't it done on pistons enough to we would have heard of it as a upgrade, or the manufacturers do it....... :?:

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 1:26 pm 
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Aluminum oxide is very hard. I'd guess that particles that wore or cracked off would act like sandpaper between the cylinder and piston.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 1:29 pm 
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Starfire
Just curious as to how your method compares to commercial annodizing as far as durability
If I can do it at home on the cheap, I wouldn't mind if the process was more work (like maybe boiling)
Just interested if the home job can be close to as good as store bought

As far as why aren't pistons treated at the factory, I would think that it is a function of cost and would it really make a difference in longevity over say 5-10 years. Seems like most modern bikes have top end & clutch wear problems long before pistons let alone tires, brakes, electronics, etc.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 2:29 pm 
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Jim, that is the same as the commercial process, except that commercially, the current density and strength of acid solution are (hopefully) better controlled.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 6:04 pm 
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Jim C wrote:
Starfire
Just curious as to how your method compares to commercial annodizing as far as durability
If I can do it at home on the cheap, I wouldn't mind if the process was more work (like maybe boiling)
Just interested if the home job can be close to as good as store bought

As far as why aren't pistons treated at the factory, I would think that it is a function of cost and would it really make a difference in longevity over say 5-10 years. Seems like most modern bikes have top end & clutch wear problems long before pistons let alone tires, brakes, electronics, etc.

The only real difference is scale. Manufactures do it by the thousand. Another unknown is the time of immersion... there are many differing alloys. Thats why I suggest try it first to get the feel. It really is easier than painting, its easier to do than talking about it too. Once a small plant is set up, it can be used over and over. Remember, pretty much all these type commercial processes were originally discovered in backyard workshops. And yes, its a store bought finish.... exactly the same process. The largest item I have done is a cam cover for a four cylinder bike engine. It had been welded and looked terrible. Anodising completely hid the repair and it really looked better than new.
I think the reason pistons arent anodised... the metal grows slightly when anodised, and this is probably hard to control. There is a molecular change in the surface. But, with old used pistons, this would be a bonus. There would be no "sandpaper" particles either... the way alumimium oxides are made as abrasives is a very different process.

edit.... there is lots on the interweb about this...here is one.
http://www.bryanpryor.com/anodizing.php
This one being more PC... has the warnings!!
http://www.engineeringhobbyist.com/proj ... anodizing/

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Last edited by starfire on Sat Jun 11, 2011 6:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 6:18 pm 
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starfire wrote:
There would be no "sandpaper" particles either... the way alumimium oxides are made as abrasives is a very different process.

Under a magnifier, try scraping an anodized part. You'll see little sand-like particles that chip off. Anything going wrong with a piston, like a slight bit of seizing, could do the same thing.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 6:43 pm 
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Jim wrote:
starfire wrote:
There would be no "sandpaper" particles either... the way alumimium oxides are made as abrasives is a very different process.

Under a magnifier, try scraping an anodized part. You'll see little sand-like particles that chip off. Anything going wrong with a piston, like a slight bit of seizing, could do the same thing.

Well Jim, microscopically, I would think the abrasive particles in air would be more harmful to the engine, but, what would I know? I really dont think any triple owner will anodise their pistons...really. Was just surmising. I guess until someone tries it, we will never know. Mind you... after more reading, it appears the anodised "coating" is a form of ceramic. Could this be the "coated" pistons that we read about? Maybe its already being done, under some secret propriety name?
http://www.polydyn.com/coated_pistons.htm
Bet Im right.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 6:51 pm 
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I believe that piston coatings are usually a slippery, friction-reducing coating on the sliding surfaces, and/or a heat barrier coating on the top, a ceramic for example.

Yes, the anodic coating of aluminum oxide you get when you anodize aluminum is one of the most common ceramics, alumina.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 6:53 pm 
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Jim wrote:
I believe that piston coatings are usually a slippery, friction-reducing coating on the sliding surfaces, and/or a heat barrier coating on the top, a ceramic for example.

Yes, the anodic coating of aluminum oxide you get when you anodize aluminum is one of the most common ceramics, alumina.


You are such an engineer Jim!..........

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