Jim C wrote:
Starfire
Just curious as to how your method compares to commercial annodizing as far as durability
If I can do it at home on the cheap, I wouldn't mind if the process was more work (like maybe boiling)
Just interested if the home job can be close to as good as store bought
As far as why aren't pistons treated at the factory, I would think that it is a function of cost and would it really make a difference in longevity over say 5-10 years. Seems like most modern bikes have top end & clutch wear problems long before pistons let alone tires, brakes, electronics, etc.
The only real difference is scale. Manufactures do it by the thousand. Another unknown is the time of immersion... there are many differing alloys. Thats why I suggest try it first to get the feel. It really is easier than painting, its easier to do than talking about it too. Once a small plant is set up, it can be used over and over. Remember, pretty much all these type commercial processes were originally discovered in backyard workshops. And yes, its a store bought finish.... exactly the same process. The largest item I have done is a cam cover for a four cylinder bike engine. It had been welded and looked terrible. Anodising completely hid the repair and it really looked better than new.
I think the reason pistons arent anodised... the metal grows slightly when anodised, and this is probably hard to control. There is a molecular change in the surface. But, with old used pistons, this would be a bonus. There would be no "sandpaper" particles either... the way alumimium oxides are made as abrasives is a very different process.
edit.... there is lots on the interweb about this...here is one.
http://www.bryanpryor.com/anodizing.phpThis one being more PC... has the warnings!!
http://www.engineeringhobbyist.com/proj ... anodizing/