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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2014 3:29 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:26 pm
Posts: 1805
Location: Running Springs Ca
I just pulled the cases out and someone already drilled them and did a good job :thumbup: Cody, do you remember
what size sleeve you used in between the Suzuki rubber mounts? Inside Diameter 10mm correct?


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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2014 7:50 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:03 pm
Posts: 2605
Location: Birthplace of Minnesota
I've used a couple of different things. My favorite was thin walled (NOT EMT) galvanized pipe that I got at an old hardware store in Minneapolis. I think it was old plumbing supply pipe? I have never seen this type of pipe anywhere else. It was just about a dead-nuts match in wall thickness and OD to the original tubing found in real Kawasaki Rubbermounts....

The last 3 sets of cases I've rubbermounted however, I have cheated and used the German "pre-made" rubbermounts.

one thing that I have noticed is that the rubber used in the German mounts does not seem to be as strong/durable/whatever when compared to Suzuki Silentblock/Waterbuffalo rubbermounts.

The engine must be perfectly shimmed/spaced/aligned in the frame or they tear very easily. Not that they are bad, you just need to be methodical in getting the cases set up straight or they will tear. You can't just jam the engine in there and say "done!".


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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2014 11:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 11:04 am
Posts: 3490
Location: Capitol of Ca, USA
Don't quote me, but I seem to recall a 5/32" size, but I'd have to check out my bare 72 cases to be sure.

I too had a mishap when drilling my 75 cases to work with my 72 top-end, the worst having drilled right through to the outside of the banjo fitting boss :banghead. I had that welded up and re-drilled. Using a nice new bit, if you drill at approximately half the speed of your hand drill, it drills quickly and cleanly, no forcing needed. You don't want to melt the aluminum, so a medium-slow speed works great. It helped me to draw a line using a thin black marker on the rear of the cases where you are drilling, from the case deck down to the area just above the threads that Moo described, and try to maintain that same angle as the line when drilling.

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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 7:23 pm 

Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2013 9:34 pm
Posts: 66
What are the "german "pre-made" motor mounts" curious to know that I have a 74 H2 i want to rubbermount.

Not to thread jack of course


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 12:10 am 

Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2011 1:49 am
Posts: 348
Location: Pacifica, CA
67lotus49 wrote:
I just pulled the cases out and someone already drilled them and did a good job :thumbup: Cody, do you remember
what size sleeve you used in between the Suzuki rubber mounts? Inside Diameter 10mm correct?


Ron,

McMaster has metric sized tubing, I bought some for my conversion.

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Don


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 2:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 11:04 am
Posts: 3490
Location: Capitol of Ca, USA
Floivanus wrote:
What are the "german "pre-made" motor mounts" curious to know that I have a 74 H2 i want to rubbermount.

Not to thread jack of course

http://www.hard-to-find-parts.de/pd1271427127.htm?categoryId=22
Image

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"Only cheat the cheaters, boy - you can't cheat an honest man!" Mordecai Jones - The Flim Flam Man.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 6:58 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2014 12:41 pm
Posts: 272
Location: Central florida
kawi3cyl wrote:
Don't quote me, but I seem to recall a 5/32" size, but I'd have to check out my bare 72 cases to be sure.

I too had a mishap when drilling my 75 cases to work with my 72 top-end, the worst having drilled right through to the outside of the banjo fitting boss :banghead. I had that welded up and re-drilled. Using a nice new bit, if you drill at approximately half the speed of your hand drill, it drills quickly and cleanly, no forcing needed. You don't want to melt the aluminum, so a medium-slow speed works great. It helped me to draw a line using a thin black marker on the rear of the cases where you are drilling, from the case deck down to the area just above the threads that Moo described, and try to maintain that same angle as the line when drilling.



Does anyone have a definitive answer to this? I need to order some drill bits. :D


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 7:07 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 5:56 am
Posts: 183
Location: Breda, The Netherlands
Ø3 mm, 45° angle :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 8:50 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2014 12:41 pm
Posts: 272
Location: Central florida
Leon wrote:
Ø3 mm, 45° angle :thumbup:




Sweet! Thanks! :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 3:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2014 12:41 pm
Posts: 272
Location: Central florida
Here's a pic that shows how to line up the bit for a perfect hole. The bit crosses the stud right at where the the threads meet the shoulder. The bit is less than a 1/4 inch from the stud.

Image


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