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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 1:20 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 4:45 am
Posts: 583
Location: mount joy pa
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-H1-H2- ... 9f&vxp=mtr

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 1:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 3:22 pm
Posts: 326
Location: Holmestrand, NORWAY
wavehog33 wrote:
R.B. wrote:
I've only ever seen the oil syphon out of the tank when the one way valves are shot, did you test them before fitting them ?
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Quote:
does the pump run oil through just sitting and the check valves are what stops the oil flow both ways??? I understood the valves were to stop the back pressure from engine but the tank oil would only move when the pump was actually turning and pumping???

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If you left the pipes off the pump, the oil would syphon straight out and empty the tank, the check valves are there to stop crankcase pressure from sucking the oil out of each line prematurely, so I suspect that the valves are not working and the oil is just leaking past the valves.

I appreciate your help. My impression was the check valves only hold the engine pressure back, I did not realize the pump would gravity feed and if the valves are bad, would eventually drain the entire tank in the motor. Thanks for educating me!!!
The springs and balls are new from an EBAY seller out of MN. No doubt a member here? So, they were new when the motor was initially started, now I have 41 miles. The seller claims they are the correct resistance to operate the range of "break" pressure. I have not pumped checked the lines as I cannot figure out a way to do it without building a huge contraption to run 5 psi. My mighty vac only pulls and does not push, so I do not believe the vaccum pressure would be the same as pushing pressure?
I pulled the lines off again and installed the stock springs again. I set according to the Youtube pump test video. I stretched my old springs back to .608" and re-primped with the green CCI Zuk oil. Plan to check it for a day or two and look if gravity feeding the Klotz (red) again.
If the valves fail again with the stock springs set back to .608" then not sure what to do???
Thanks.


Not exactly a huge contraption. It doesn't take much to generate 5 psi.

Image
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 2:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 5:01 am
Posts: 277
Location: Brownsburg IN
III wrote:
Did you do anything to ensure the new check balls were seating properly in the old valves?
Some do a light lapping of them to ensure a good seal.

Darth here on this forum is the ebay seller you mentioned and he is a good one to ask, if you have any questions about installing his parts.

Other than being careful all was inplace I did not check that ball was seated. But had no reason to believe anything was amiss...


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 2:36 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 5:01 am
Posts: 277
Location: Brownsburg IN
Pk....that looks nice and simple...I am going to build one of those!! Thanks for the pic! Is the gauge also from the bp cuff and the pumper??
what is the other piece on the alum block?? Can't tell in the pic....I see banjo bolt, what is that to the left


Last edited by wavehog33 on Sat Mar 15, 2014 2:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 2:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9841
Location: North Central NC
wavehog33 wrote:
Other than being careful all was inplace I did not check that ball was seated. But had no reason to believe anything was amiss...


The seats tend to get corrosion over the years and many won't seal to the ball without some help.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 2:38 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:41 pm
Posts: 3489
Location: Mount Vision, NY
I ask, because many have said that they needed to lap the ball seat a bit to get a good seal.
The balls and springs can wear, so it makes sense the seats can be damaged by the deformed balls right?
Well worth checking out if your last attempt fails to stop the seeping of oil.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 2:39 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:41 pm
Posts: 3489
Location: Mount Vision, NY
Jim wrote:
wavehog33 wrote:
Other than being careful all was inplace I did not check that ball was seated. But had no reason to believe anything was amiss...


The seats tend to get corrosion over the years and many won't seal to the ball without some help.



SPEEDY aint ya???


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 2:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 5:01 am
Posts: 277
Location: Brownsburg IN
III wrote:
Jim wrote:
wavehog33 wrote:
Other than being careful all was inplace I did not check that ball was seated. But had no reason to believe anything was amiss...


The seats tend to get corrosion over the years and many won't seal to the ball without some help.



SPEEDY aint ya???


the seats looked good when I visual with mag glass....but crossing my fingers?? I have nice H1 lines but the long left is smaller diameter.....if I switch are these compatable??? Does h2 require fatter lines?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 2:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:04 pm
Posts: 1967
Location: Nottingham U.K. / Traverse City Mi
There is a FAR easier way to test . . . . . a method that I have been using for over 30 years.

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1, Open a can of beer (#1)

2, insert banjo end into mouth

3, Suck for all you are worth, you should JUST be able to suck the ball off it's seat

4, Spit out the oil you just ate

5, Drink the beer! :thumbup:

6, Re insert the banjo, try to blow down the pipe - you should fail! - If you can blow past the banjo then it is shot.

7, Drink more beer!
.
#1 Coffee, whisky, vodka . . . all work ;)

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 2:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:41 pm
Posts: 3489
Location: Mount Vision, NY
R.B. wrote:
#1 Coffee, whisky, vodka . . . all work ;)



RED RED WINE too

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