Kawi2strokes.com Forum

It would be nice if one of you that have purchased one of these kits, would take the time, when you install one, to measure BOTH the original, unmodified end cap, and the kit end cap, then post those change dimensions for Dale to archive on the resources site.

I would also think that if someone had a later model pump apart as well, they could measure and record, and post them as well, to confirm/deny the later caps are the same as the kit part cap.

This would give all of us a 3 cap clear dimension reference point to consider/compare/discuss.

Very good suggestion, Dave. I will measure the kit part's dimensions and the my original's dimensions and make a drawing.

Vintage Kawasaki just sent an email with the tracking number, so apparently the kits really were in stock.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

I got around to installing mine today. I did not see any size or shape differences between the old cap or the new. I did notice the old "o-rings" were definitely flat where the two new ones were round/traditional shape. I assume one of the new ones went on the inside of the shaft (where I note it's square) and the other was on the end of the shaft where it seats into the cover. Ironically the inside one I took out was the malformed one, I would have thought the end one would get squished, interesting.

Also not the bit of junk I found inside, a note for anyone NOT using a tank screen.

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...

From my now feeble mind's "memory", the change in the end cap was something like the depth from the sealing surface to the end of the guide sleeve area bore in the cap, was reduced from 18mm, down to 16mm, but, I could be wrong. This would compress the one O ring between the body and end cap another 2mm's or so, for a better O ring compression and seal.

I don't see any reason against using the significantly better O rings available today in these pumps. Better materials are now available. I don't see why the factory didn't make the one flat comression ring a square cross section, instead of an O design.

Could be - measuring a 2mm difference inside a small cap is beyond my abilities

I would agree on using a larger o-ring too - after taking this apart there's not much in there.

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...

An o-ring groove either about the diameter of a shaft, or in a flat surface face, typically would be "square" in section. Not radiused.

for all I know this thing will leak all over and I'll have to use my spare pump, we'll see.

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...

That aluminum thing with all the holes sticking out the rear of the main pump body is called a "guide sleeve", and SHOULDN'T turn in the main body. That small piece of metal could be the pin that inerts into the guide sleeve, and the body, to stop the sleeve from turning in the body.

That sleeve has openings that MUST align wioth the delivery and fill holes in the oil pump body, and if trhe sleeve turns free in the body, the holes can close off, stopping oiling to the engine.

The guide sleeve IS NOT the green anodized piston in the ehter of the guide sleeve.

The reason we need to seal the end cavity off well is, if there is a leak, it is on the pressurized delivery side of the end cavity, which allows opumped oil to migrate back intyo the pump cavity, and NOT be delivered tgo the cavity and oil line. Reduced oil volume is the result, with engine damage possible.

None left and could use one. LOL Dang nabit IM too late lol, saw one on ebay already for 60 bucks and another for 79.

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Chicken strips are for kids.

This is a good old post. I see the bulletin was from 73. Was this problem rectified for the later H1s?