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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:30 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:17 am
Posts: 464
Location: Orlando, FL
I was given some tips on bleeding this system but this is what I have so far. I bled the MC on the bench then fitted on the bike.
Trying to bleed the system started on the left Caliper and bled till clear fluid as per Kawa dual disc installation. Then did right the same.
Brake lever hardened up a bit after going from side to side a few times but not really good. When I pump the brake lever fluid pops up in the master cylinder is this correct?Stop lamp comes on and brakes work but still too soft and spongy.
At the moment I have everything tight and the brake lever tied tight to the handlebar (was told this might help.)
Any other thoughts or do you think I might have to try to bleed the master again?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
The dual systems just suck, too many places for bubbles to hide. I would unbolt the calipers and splitter and move them all around, tapping on them and wedges of wood between the pads.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:52 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:13 am
Posts: 1001
Location: Auburn Ca
A pressure bleeder and open both bleeders at the same time.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:26 pm
Posts: 1805
Location: Running Springs Ca
Bleeders that push rather than pull work great. If you ever have to change a brake line on a newer car with ABS a push bleeder saves so much time.
I modified a old master cylinder cap for bikes and installed a nipple. Using a hand pump with a reservoir attached full of brake fluid makes it easy.
Using the old fashioned method works fine but does take patience. If you let it sit for a few hours the air will work it was up to the highest point
and try bleeding at the master again.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 1:45 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:17 am
Posts: 464
Location: Orlando, FL
Bled the MC again as per Kawa Instruction. Getting clear airless fluid from both calipers but still very spongy lever. Brakes work and enough pressure to put brake switch light on but not firm enough......Need another tack...will have to try a mytivac or something.......


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 4:53 am 

Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 11:37 pm
Posts: 726
Location: SUNRISE FLORIDA USA
You ARE running with a master that is designed for the dual calipers, right? I've had calipers (big H2 calipers) that displaced more fluid than the master that I was using. The system was spongy with no air in it.

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1972 H2, modified and Tracy bodied. 77 Kawi 1000. Lime green. Cafe. Lester wheels.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 7:21 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:17 am
Posts: 464
Location: Orlando, FL
Yes 5/8ths MC with new kit in it. Pumps well when bled on the handlebar.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 7:32 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:17 am
Posts: 464
Location: Orlando, FL
OK according to scrambler I need to back bleed them. I,m going to get a set up something like this......
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reverse-Brake-B ... b4&vxp=mtr

Will let you know how it goes!


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 7:42 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:36 am
Posts: 2694
Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
Another method to reverse bleed is to pry the caliper pads full wide to force the fluid/air back up to the master.... it can be messy at the master ;)

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 8:40 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:17 am
Posts: 464
Location: Orlando, FL
Didn't think of that but looking back I think jamoo was saying something along the lines. I have everything bolted up looking nice, so don't want to disturb unless I have too.
My wife works in the medical profession she will try and get me a nice big syringe to try........


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