Kawi2strokes.com Forum

1) Got the bike all back together and wanted to take a quick ride.. well, it is tough to start and won't idle. The previous owner told me he cleaned the carbs, but it is taking 10+ kicks to start will not continue to run unless revving high. The gas tank he had on it filled up the 1 fuel filter he had with rust, so I am guessing carbs need to be cleaned again.. thus the no idling. Right?

2) To add to this, I have seen smoke coming from around the points cover after it dies when I finally get it cranked. The gasket is missing right now because the previous owner loved to use rtv instead of ordering a gasket.. I cleaned up the rtv and am waiting for my new gasket to come in. Am I only noticing the smoke because the gasket isn't there, or is there a problem?

3) The previous owner was running a 25A fuse when I read 20's are to be used. I switched to a 20 and blew two fuses last night in the few times I had it running.

4) When pulling the wheel for rebuild, I noticed one of the bolts that comes down from the fork bottom to hold the axle is broken. I don't feel comfortable riding with only one bolt intact when there should be two. Is the bolt pressed in? Is there a way to remove and replace it?

Sorry for the newb questions. Not used to dealing with points! I had electronic on both my bikes and even my '67 cougar ignition was converted before I bought it.

For question 1 you're probably correct; the carbs...specifically the pilot jet will need to be cleaned.

For 2, there should not be any smoke under the points cover. The gasket is to keep moisture out not to keep smoke in. Smoke in there might indicate a bad left crank seal. If you didn't swap out the points with new ones, you should, at least for $20 you could rule out running issues due to bad points.

Question 3 is hard to figure, but you must have a short. I have had trouble with a bad connector wire between battery and rectifier...the wire might look ok but it could be corroded and have poor conductivity.

Thanks Zambia, I went ahead and ordered points.

I've already replaced two gaskets that were missing and replaced with silicone by the previous owner.. so it very well could be a bad crank seal and been looked over. I'll look it over to see if there is a leak.

Any ideas on the fork bottom issue? I'm hoping I won't have to source another fork bottom.

While you're at it, order some new condensers as well. That could be the source of your fuse problem and smoke. In any case, they should probably be replaced.
The fork bolt is a stud threaded in.... fix it before you ride.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

The axle-clamp studs are threaded, but they have been in there a long time - a good penetrant and patience will remove them. I have used a pair of 'mole-grips' (locking-pliers) put on super tight if you have any stud left to grip. Otherwise, drill and re-tap, you can use a bolt for a replacement. Metric 8 x 1.25mm thread. Don't ride around without 4 good studs for the front axle..! (mraxl types faster than me )

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.

Agreed that the left crank seal may be the source of smoke under the alternator cover, and bad idling could be clogged pilot jets, but the blowing of fuses, bad idling, and smoke could all be symptoms of the same problem under the cover.

The broken axle clamp stud is probably not related.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

1. Dont get in a hurry and a big number 2 NEVER TRUST WHAT THE OTHER GUY SAID HE DID. If I had a dollar for everytime I heard that at work.

Awesome. That's good news! I do have a bit of the stud to grip on to.

I ordered a set of points with condensers last night. I'm checking out the crank seal today.

I appreciate the help and good news for sure!

Took my carbs off.. I'm debating just buying replacements.

When the last owner told me he cleaned the carbs.. I'm pretty sure he was just telling me what I wanted to hear.

Notice anything?


This was the best of the 3 by far












Tried cleaning and inside a little, piece of the choke is broken and jammed (which I could probably tap and pull out if this were the only issue), on one carb the piece that the jet screws into is has been pressed too far down causing the jet to be recessed and the barrel that it screws in to is jammed too far below. I've also got different floats. I'm thinking while the bike is down and i'm waiting for other parts this may be the time to upgrade the carbs. What are the suggestions?

If I were you I would go to the parts store and buy a $20 dollar bucket of Berrymans carb soak or local napa and get a gallon.. Then pull all your brass that you can,,, check pilot jet size ,main jet, and slide cut away numbers to make sure are all right.. Also look where carbs clamp on to intake and make sure all are stamped S3.. Then you need to follow Mxrals carb tuning manual in the resource section to a T.. Should be able to salvage carbs with some new parts..Seeing how they come out of soak.. I have seen worse
S3 carbs are kind of hard to get !! Look at 50 a carb and still have to go through.. only use geniune Mikuni parts dont buy a sudco kit no good only for gaskets and needle valve..

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1977 KH 400
1976 KH 250/350 rat bike
1971 KV 75
1976 KV 75