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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 11:41 pm 

Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 5:09 pm
Posts: 89
Location: Covina California
I have bled my oil injectors several times only to find air bubbles getting in the #1 cylinder oil line after riding for about 5 miles.The other two lines are fine and don't have any signs of air in them. I held open the dial full when bleeding the system and watched the lines fill up and air disappear. I don't know what I'm doing wrong, any help would be apprecited. Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 2:46 am 

Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2011 2:02 am
Posts: 59
Location: Norway
I assume you have seals with rubber coating?

I struggled with the same thing for a long time, replacing lines, seals and pump didn't cure it. It turned out the oil was too thin. I used the Castrol TTS which is a good oil, but thin as water (almost). I don't think the old oiling system on our bikes are made for such thin modern oils, it froths the oil causing bubbles. It occured mostly when riding in town, and only in the two thicker oil lines. At highway speed the bubbles were blown through due to higher pressure. When I started using a thicker oil the problem disappeared.

However, a faulty check valve could also cause bubbles.

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H1, T500, T350, T250, GT550, RS100, Sachs


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 11:18 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3156
If this line is bolted to the END cavity hole on the oil pump (3 hole pumps only), then, you heed to do the end cap modification as outlined on Dale's resources site. The end oil sealing O ring is not sealing. And, hes, it can leak air in, and NOT leak oil out.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 1:20 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3850
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
H2RTuner wrote:
If this line is bolted to the END cavity hole on the oil pump (3 hole pumps only), then, you heed to do the end cap modification as outlined on Dale's resources site. The end oil sealing O ring is not sealing. And, hes, it can leak air in, and NOT leak oil out.


That's good to know about the air leaking Dave - I knew it was for the oil leak... I did the SB last year and it did stop the leak, I don't remember if I was still getting air in the line though - and the H2 is buried behind some other bikes right now so I can't check.

I don't know if any of the kits are left but the thread about them (I don't know where - someone can search for it) mentioned the end-cap and O-ring and possible field-service change and oring substitutes.
bb

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 7:13 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3156
I've done the S/B swaps, and outlined how to modify the original end caps to tighten up the "crush" on the O rings at both the old place, and here. It's simple, the O ring crushes flat, and loses its sealing tension/crush. Machining the end cap to give more crush tension on the O ring stops the leaks, both ways.

Most people don't realize that they see a service bulletin, written out of tech services, and they assume only tech services people had anything to do with it. What happened more than not, is, we all had opportunities to look at issues, and worked together to get mods and fixes done. We spoke with tech services, service department, six days trials and motocross, all mechanical and electrical departments to help each other get fixes for problems and issues on all bikes. Racing, ALL raving helped make the entire breed better, no matter what it was. We all worked together, because we all loved the entire Kawasaki lines back then.

In 1973, there were issues with a couple of the smaller single cylinder bikes. Dealers were telling of failures in certain areas. We had all the racing and tech sectors in one building, different places, but, mostly, all together. We used to go in in Saturdays, and run the bikes, but mostly, couldn't repeat the failures. One day, one of the tech services guys brought his two kids to the shop, wife told him she'd murder 'em if they stayed at home that day. After abut a half hour, the kids were just out of hand all the way. So, we got the bright idea to put 'em on bikes, let 'em go ride in the open field next door, on the improvised tack we all used. First bike pushed back in less than 5 minutes, with "It's broke". Other bike back two minutes later, "It's broke". We put 'em on two more bikes, and that lasted all of 20 minutes, BUT, those kids ended up with a job for the rest of the year, unofficial motorcycle test rider killers. We weren't riding the bikes as hard as we should have, and cared about them way past what a new rider did. Those kids helped us a lot to find and fix a lot of problems before they got to dealers, and when dealers had issues in the field.

The best tester/killer was Windy Briggs's son, Dennis. He became a test rider later on, and racer, dirt bikes, flat trackers, and was the only person that could wheelie an MT1 farther than me around Laguna Seca. I could go about 3-1/2 laps on the rear wheel only, Dennis routinely did it for 5 plus laps. He only stopped because he got hungry and/or thirsty.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 10:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3850
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
+1 Dave and as always - good reads from you

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 12:56 am 

Joined: Sat Jun 11, 2011 11:11 pm
Posts: 464
Location: New Zealand
Knut wrote:
I assume you have seals with rubber coating?

I struggled with the same thing for a long time, replacing lines, seals and pump didn't cure it. It turned out the oil was too thin. I used the Castrol TTS which is a good oil, but thin as water (almost). I don't think the old oiling system on our bikes are made for such thin modern oils, it froths the oil causing bubbles. It occured mostly when riding in town, and only in the two thicker oil lines. At highway speed the bubbles were blown through due to higher pressure. When I started using a thicker oil the problem disappeared.

However, a faulty check valve could also cause bubbles.

Im with you on this one Knut in every way. TTS is the best oil you can buy, but thin. I had same problem like you said, only in the large pipes, so id change back too normal (thick) oil, problem goes away, back too TTS, problem back. What a pain. So i decided the only thing left too do was check the check valves.(as id already been through the whole system including relacing all the o-rings in the pump, just for fun) Cant remember the exact figures but they were blowing at around 2psi, i think spec is 4.6psi? so i decided too set them too 6psi (too conmpensate for thin oil) Havent seen a bubble since. But these bubbles were coming down the oil lines from the crank cases towords the pump, so you may be experiencing something different than i was.

I also checked the pump output pressure, just too make sure, i stopped at 10psi as not too damage anything.


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