Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Hello,

Im waiting for a throttle cable set for my H2, I have bought a set of mikuni 34 flat slides, so I need to shorten about 10mm the free leight of the wire on the carb side.
I have already bought longer cable adjusters, so there is a possibility that I can leave the throttle cable unmodified, but in case I can't fit the new adjusters (for example if it looks too ugly..) I have to ho ahead with the "cut the wire" route.
I have some new carb nipples ready to be soldered, is it better to solder them with some tin solder or is better to use some silver solder? (im not sure about tin soldering because the throttle cable is stainless stell, but also silver solder requires too much heat... Who knows!! )

Let me know what do you think, and thanks in advance!
Ciao

Use silver solder & buy the best soldering iron you can afford (you want one with a high wattage that heats up very quickly). Make sure the nipples have a countersunk hole. Put the cut cable through the hole, then "mush" up the end by unravelling it a little. Pull the mushed up cable into the countersunk hole, then solder. Clean up the mess with a Dremel.

Trevor

Moriniman's method sounds good, but getting anything that can be melted with a soldering iron to stick to stainless steel requires special flux, like Ruby's Stainless Steel Flux: http://rubyfluidflux.com/Stainless_Steel_Flux.html

For stainless cables I use the brazing rod called "silver solder", not the stuff you can melt with a soldering iron, and borax flux (make a paste with water and 20 Mule Team Borax laundry powder). Silver solder melts below the melting point of brass, so as long as the cable ends are not pot metal, you're OK if you're careful with the torch. For the small ends that go in the carb slides, you can make a blob from brass brazing rod or silver solder and shape it with a file to make your own end.

For the large cylindrical ends that go in the twist-grip, I drill the cylinder half way through with a larger drill size, put the cable through the hole, and make a brass blob with brazing rod on the cable end. Then shape be blob to fit in the larger hole I drilled, and soft solder the brass blob into the cylinder.

The heat from brazing doesn't hurt the stainless cable if you don't overdo it.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Bird caging...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_273vfLLa8

Very nice, PK, I'm going to remember that method. It looks like it wouldn't be hard to make the dies for that. You do still need stainless steel soldering flux if you're using stainless cable.

In the video, it looked like you could make the bird cage and just solder or braze it to make a small ball end when needed.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

I suspect that with proper bird caging and nipples you will get sufficient strength using low temperature soldering (60/40 tin/lead).

Below is a picture of a Venhill throttle cable nipple.
The bird cage fits inside the nipple with the cable going through the small diameter end and then the whole thing is soldered like in the video.

PK


.

Agreed. I just meant that such solder won't stick to stainless cable unless you use flux made for the purpose.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

OK, I have never tried to solder stainless.

birdcaging .
simple but very strong
thanks for posting that

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she will never be pretty but she is a fun ride.

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