Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Hello, Today I worked a little on my freshly rebuilt H1D, I had too much smoke, so I had to check the oil lines springs and oil pump too.

I solved all the smoke issue setting the oil lines springs to 4.6 psi, and after playing a bit with the original VM28 (sync and somefine tuning...) im very happy with the results...

The bike has a beautiful set of HIGGSPEED chambers and UNI filters, and it runs great! Power wheelies on forst gear and if you help yourself with a touch on the clutch you can raise your front wheel in second gear too.

I bought some time ago a set of adapter flanges from a German vendor on Ebay, the same of the sytech style clutch actuator. They are extremely well made and I'm thinking to put the VM30 from my H2 on the H1D.

what do you think of that? Is a good idea to put 30's instead of 28's or it's a waste of time?

There will be a bit of power increase in the upper rpm range. you just have to decide if it is worth the work and cost.

I personally don't think it's worth the trouble.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

I'll be putting VM30's (H2 carbs) on my project H1. Could care less about any power increase.

The main reason for me is that I HATE H1 CARBS WITH ALL OF MY SOUL.

Jetting changes, and the constant in-out of tuning is SO MUCH EASIER with rubber intakes and H2 carbs, then the stupid H1 carbs.



Did I mention that I hate stock H1 28mm's???

Maybe once.....

I'll raise you one, I hate ALL stock carbs. There isn't a triple out there that should have anything smaller than 34's....... Well ok, the 250's may work better with 32's........

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Cody, you know if you drill and tap the boss on the side of the H1 carbs (I bought a tap, but I forget the thread) you can use the H2 slides (of course you're limited to a 2.5 cutaway... ), top caps and idle screws and get rid of that nightmare top idle adjust crap forever. And you don't have to mess with adapters to mount them. (I will, but that's because I'm putting tham on my S3!)

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We don't need no stinkin' Cams!

good tip, but that only takes care of needle adjustments..

What about the stupid aluminum spigot with the cheazebag phenolic asbestos "heat sink" material, that either welds itself to the spigot requiring a prybar to remove the carb (levering off of one of the mount nuts (you know of what I speak), and then when it does come loose, after you've bloodied your knuckles rotating back and forth...you realize it stayed on the spigot and you have to figure out how to "glue" it back into the craptastic mouth of the carb itself. Oh, "no biggie! I'll just use a hacksaw and cut deeper slots!!!"
Once that is sorted, you now have a couple of super cool airleaks between the spigots, paper gaskets, etc...

I hate H1 carbs.

Don't forget you can't get necessary tuning parts either......

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

just send them directly to Aylor so he can set them along side the Wirges pipes he was going to video tape a steamroller running over.

Hahaha I hate H1 carbs too!!!! And the idle screw is just a pain in the a$$!!!!

Maybe for now I'll leave the 28's.

Then when I have installed and jetted the TM34's I have ordered for my H2 maybe I will try to put the 30's on the H1 (Since I have already the adapters too...)

One last thing:
since I don't think I can use the stock throttle cables on the TM34's, where I can buy a custom made throttle cable for these carbs?

Thanks again

cody, fit some rd350 vm28's. or some pwk or oko d-slides. the h2 carbs are made of kryptonite or something. heaviest damn carbs, ever.