Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I just bought a 1976 Kh500 with a 1975 engine installed. All the electronics appear to be hooked up according to the wiring diagram I obtained from this site. No spark at all in either of the three cylinders. Jim is rebuilding my cdi's for my h1d bike and it had a test procedure that told me the cdi's tested bad. I can't seem to find a procedure to test the cdi's for this bike, it has a "a" and "b" unit according to the wiring diagram. Does this test the same as the h1d? the wires are different colors and appears to be different in every way.
Also is there a way to test the alternator and regulator too? The little schematic Jim sent me for the alternator for my h1d looks complicated and couldn't tell how to hook up the multimeter with it. Is there a step by step procedure for hooking up the multimeter leads to check the alternator?Thanks everyone for the help! This site rocks.
Steve

P.S. these bikes are addicting!
I promise I wont buy anymore
2 is enough

This will let you test your KH500 CDI: http://www.kawtriple.com/mraxl/cdilate/latecditest.htm

The magneto winding in your alternator should be around 116 Ohms. Unplug the 2-pin connector between the alternator and the CDI unit and measure the resistance between those two contacts, on the alternator side of the connection. This is not a conclusive test, but is a start. If you get something very different from 116 Ohms, you know you have a problem.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

The CDI test procedure needs to be updated, in light of the original schematic being wrong. This was identified by "Wolfie" on the UK board recently, and when I have time will update the test procedure to take into account the changes. I see the ever vigilant Mraxl has corrected the offending diagram already.

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http://3cyl.com/mraxl/starfire/starfire.htm

There are a few checks you can make to eliminate other ignition components and then assume the CDI is at fault if those don't show any problems.
- Check ignition winding in stator. It should be 116 ohms when disconnected between brn & orange wires.
- Check pickups. They should read 130 ohms from white wire to ground.
- Check coil/brush contact. It should read 1 ohm from red/wht wire to ground three times during 360 deg crank rotation.
- Also check rotor/pickup air gap... .020-.030"
- Kill switch needs to be in "Run" position.

As far as charging system goes, check battery voltage at 3000rpm to see if it is working. Battery voltage should be 14-16 vdc.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

The CDI test remains valid despite the change. If you carefully follow those testing steps, it should tell you if the CDI is ok or not. If you can track down a good old fashioned NEON bulb tester.... these are great for testing the magneto coils between orange and brown.... just connect, kick the bike, bulb should light.

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http://3cyl.com/mraxl/starfire/starfire.htm

I tried this test and all I get is an infinite reading on the multimeter (setting is rx 10 k) all the other settings the needle doesn't move. I'm assuming my multimeter is working properly but it seems everything I test is either infinite or nothing. I might have a meter issue? I tried this same test on my other h1 and the results are the same. Do you think I might have a meter problem?
The continuity tests ok on the meter as well as reads voltage ok too. It did zero out too.

If you have a digital meter, choose OHMS X1 to read anything below 200, X10 to read above. If you have an analogue meter.... MUCH better for doing electrical work, also choose the OHMS X1 position. Generally, you need to adjust the zero set for accurate measurements, but nothing needs to be very accurate with bike electic measurements... +/- 20 percent is fine. I would have your meter tested.... do this yourself. Switch to OHMS X1, and measure a small 12 volt light bulb. You should get a low reading around 10 OHMs. A very good and easy way to test these high voltage mag coils, is to directly connect these to the mains. A small screwdriver held near the metal core will be felt to vibrate, and if left connected for a few minutes, any quick heating will indicate shorted turns..... it can then be discarded as faulty. Before anyone jumps on me for even suggesting this... use safe practice, ie dont touch it while its connected.

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http://3cyl.com/mraxl/starfire/starfire.htm

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

Thanks alot Jim and Mraxl for the class on the multimeter! I'm going to try this when I get in tonight and thanks for all the help in getting my bikes going, can't wait.

Thanks for all you help starfire, I tried to test a 12 volt light bulb on x1 and nothing happened. The bulb is new but is a double filament but I wouldn't think that would make a difference? my meter only zeros on x 10k and no other setting. Is this normal or should the meter zero out on other settings? I'm starting to suspect my meter being that it doesn't seem to work on any other ohms settings. It does test voltage good as well as continuity, do you think I should go get a new meter? I can't seem to get anything going lately and getting a little frustrated. I wont give up and will stay with it as long as I have you guys around to help me which I appreciate very much. It will be nice to ride this bike when everything is done! Thanks again
Steve from Ca