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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 10:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
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Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
67lotus49 wrote:
I just put a tac weld on the sprocket to the lock washer, that should do it. I am surprised that with the correct torque, red loctite and a new lock washer it loosened up. When I put the bike together a few months ago the sprocket spacing seemed right John.



100's of lbs. yanking and pulling on the sprocket...........

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 11:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:26 pm
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Location: Running Springs Ca
So John, you don't think a tac weld will hold? What about drilling a hole thru the nut and sprocket and use safety wire? I going to check it before every ride
now.


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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 11:06 pm 
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67lotus49 wrote:
So John, you don't think a tac weld will hold? What about drilling a hole thru the nut and sprocket and use safety wire? I going to check it before every ride
now.


I would locktite it also. But it should be fine. I was answering how it could loosen up.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 11:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:03 pm
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Location: Birthplace of Minnesota
I use Yamaha sprockets that have two threaded M6 holes either side of the shaft. Then make my own "Lock Washer" out of a thicker steel (not sure exact gauge, but probably 2x's thicker than stock).

The ears of the lock washer are oversized so there is plenty of contact area folded up onto opposing sides of the nut. This Lock Washer is then BOLTED to the sprocket using button-head allen bolts with loctite and the ears folded up after torquing the nut to 100-ish ft/lbs.

oh, and yeah... I use loctite on the nut as well.

works for me.


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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 3:37 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:26 am
Posts: 399
Location: Melbourne, Australia
67lotus49 wrote:
So John, you don't think a tac weld will hold? What about drilling a hole thru the nut and sprocket and use safety wire? I going to check it before every ride
now.

It should be fine. A tac was the only way I could get one to stay put.I tried every option available at the time, including changing shafts. Remember its not the large fold up section that's keeping it in place with the stock setup, just that tiny 1/8 th machine bent tab :shock: I think some of us backload the drivetrain more than others :think: Causing more fretting leading to failure more often.


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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 7:24 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 9:59 pm
Posts: 313
Location: South Australia
Cody, if you put a 6mm allen head bolt ( short obviously) in one of those threaded holes the head of the bolt will stop the nut from coming loose. Loctite all.

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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 3:00 pm 

Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2011 11:17 am
Posts: 112
I never had one come loose until I put in a rebuilt crankshaft. I think I've got it to stop coming loose by using a Genuine Kawasaki 15 tooth sprocket which I bought from the dealer. It is a little tighter on the shaft than the aftermarket one I had. I also used Red Locktite this time and a new nut and washer. The bad news is the sprocket cost $72.

72blue

"Screw the WHALES, save the TWO STROKES"


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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 3:03 pm 
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Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Like I posted earlier, if you shim the sprocket, you solve the problem.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 2:06 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:03 pm
Posts: 210
Location: Tweed. ont. Canada
I had this issue last year on my H2b. New tab and the sprocket still came loose. install new tab , snug tight , check for slop, none. Remove sprocket and put a dab of blue locktite, tighten to 70lbs , bend tang over . So far so good :D


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