Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Well, I got my H1F's stator rewound and installed...and it's still not charging. I made sure to use the exact number of turns that I took off, in my case 122.5 winds per coil. I swapped on a different regulator, made no difference. Unplugged, I'm getting 7-8 VAC out of the yellow wires at idle, 24-25 VAC at 3500 RPM. The the yellow wires to the stator are not shorted to ground. The resistance between the yellow wires is .6 ohms, .4 ohms over spec, but not an open circuit. It's behaving exactly like it was before I took it apart, except that the windings no longer show continuity to ground. Here are my questions:

1. Even thought the wire I used is slightly thinner than stock(18ga vs 17ga stock), the resistance should be pretty close to spec, and it's not. What could be causing the extra .4 ohms of resistance, and how could that cause it to not function, if at all?

2. The only thing I'm not 100% positive I did right on the stator rewind was the direction the coils are wound(cw vs ccw). Could having the coils wound the wrong direction make a difference? What if only one of them was wound backwards?

3. What would cause the AC volts coming out of the stator to be lower than it should be(when I first started diagnosing it, Jim said I should get 19VAC at 1500 and 43VAC at 3600)?

Thanks for the help.

1. I could be your meter leads. Did you short the probes together and see how close to zero you are? It could also be that some coils were originally in parallel and you wired them in series, for example.

2. If one our more coils is connected so it bucks the others, you will have low output. Winding backwards on one or more is OK as long as you get the leads connected the right way so all the outputs add and none subracts.

3. I don't remember if I'm the Jim you mean. If I gave you those numbers, it was by measuring an H2 alternator, which may be a little different.

Edit: Memory failure... Maybe this is the one that had one backwards coil to buck at high speed, to sort of regulate. At this point I think I'd want to look at another stator and copy it, reversing the leads of any coil that's wound backwards.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Sounds to me like all parallel winding legs are not connected together, ie, one leg alone would measure three times what all three would measure when connected.
Output would be low.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

Thanks for the input. I've checked my meter leads, they zero out, also tried a different meter, same results. The H1F is the one that's got a bucking coil in the system(4 series-parallel, 1 bucking). The series wound pairs are definitely wound in series because the wire in each pair is continuous from one coil to the next. That doesn't mean that one pair didn't get cw-ccw wound by mistake though. If I could find another stator to look at, my problems would be solved But the cheapest one I can find is mistermonkeyclaw's $100 gamble on corroded junk than may or may not work

Here's what I came up with for further testing. I disconnect one of the series-parallel pairs and check the output. Then disconnect the other pair and check the output. If the output isn't the same for each pair, I'll know for certain I've got a winding problem, and should be able to tell which pair is wrong. Sound reasonable?

If everything were right except that one or more of your coils is wound the wrong direction, your DC resistance measurement would read the correct value. As mraxl said, look for something that's making the resistance too high, like the two series pairs are not actually paralleled (one is hanging open).

Using 18 ga. wire instead of 17, if you have the same length of wire on the coils, will make the resistance 1.26 times higher. But if the number of turns is the same as it was, the smaller wire will end up in a smaller coil (less wire), making up for some of the 26% increase. So if the book says 0.2 Ohms, you should see about 2.5 Ohms or a little less.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Attached is my guess at winding resistances.
Individual coils (4) disconnected should be aprox 0.35ohms.
A series leg disconnected about 0.70ohms
Complete assembled 0.25ohms

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

Thanks for the pic, it helps verify what I'm seeing. As it turns out, I have two VOMs that both read ohms incorrectly The actual ohms reading is much closer to spec(and I feel really stupid).

I tried disconnecting each pair of coils and running it. On one pair, I'm getting around 40 VAC at 3500 RPM, and with the headlight off it'll read around 13V at the battery, with the other pair, I get 8 VAC and the battery voltage stays at around 11.8V. I'm pretty sure one of my coils is wound backwards, effectively bucking or canceling out that pair of coils, and the pair that is working can't generate enough power by themselves.

On the pair that isn't working, can I just swap the "in" and "out" wires of one of the coils, or does the coil need to be rewound in the other direction? Thanks again for all the help.

Just swap leads.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

Success! I swapped the leads on one of the coils on the "bad" set, and it works like it's supposed to Thanks for the help.

Most people seem to think that the late H1 has five coils in the alternator.
Personally I don't think that is the case.

Here how i think it is:

H1-E, H1-F and KH500 have six coils.
Two of these are high voltage coils for the CDI. They are not Hi and Lo speed coils but rather two identical coils connected in series in order to reach approximately 300V. These two coils experience two polarity changes between each time the CDI fires which adds up to a single sine wave cycle between each fire. The ignition coils can be identified by being wrapped in some kind if cloth and lacquered.

The remaining four coils are for the alternator. They are arranged as two serial connected pairs which again is connected in parallel.



PK