Kawi2strokes.com Forum

here is just a thought , what about drilling the studs out , make a jig up to centre the first few drills , start at an 1/8 or smaller and work up to full stud diameter then just buy new studs or get some made , I like the puller but your loading the con rods and case threads pritty big time , hope you get them off soon Al

I don't care about the rods, though I doubt its going to hurt them. I have two new cranks . They could be drilled like you said, but it likely would be a pretty involved process to make up the guides, bushings etc. I could probably get it mounted on the mill-that would help, but there's only one good cylinder left-ones cracked and one's been successfully removed.

John

John,
Years ago, I got ahold of an H-2 engine. The right side cylinder was as stuck as you have.
Ended up having to take a die-grinder with a cut-off blade to the one corrosion locked stud, through the cylinder side, down close to the base, but not AT the base.

Being the cylinder is aluminum, I will warn newbies when using a porous cutter, like a stone, cutting aluminum is DANGEROUS! Dressing the cutter with beeswax or even kerosene, OFTEN, lessens the danger.

Warning accomplished, onward then...

After the cylinder came loose, I was easily able to drive the stud remains out. Shoved a drill down the stud bore to clear the left-over corrosion debris, and a small bore round wire brush for clean up.

Had the cutting slot rewelded up, professionally, so the cylinder base didn't need anywhere near the cutting otherwise needed to flatten it back up. I think they used wedges to try to keep the "deck height" correct as possible? ....Once the cylinder cooled down...

Anyway, if my memory is correct, there wasn't much I had to remove...
Brett

well..
decided today was the day to tackle the cyls...each popped off NO problems..actually took about an hour from running bike
to top end off...not sure if my pretreating helped - but sure as hell didnt hurt..
( and the better news..was on std bore & all jugs are matching )

_________________
downwind of three mile island

That's good news. After removing the broken cylinder on mine, there were two things I learned. (at least ) The ATF/acetone, PB Blaster, KROIL (expensive) did not penetrate the length of the stuck studs at all, in spite of numerous cycles with the torch, hammering the studs with the nuts screwed on several thousand times etc. No penetration. And they were so corroded that breaking away the aluminum, the outer layer of rusted/corroded steel remained stuck to the aluminum. The studs that were stuck looked like a hurricane Katrina flood victim, but the bike is actually quite clean-go figure.

Anyway, I'm glad you are done with that part. I've pulled studs for mine from another old set of cases, have two new cranks, rebored cylinder and pistons for both. Frames going to powdercoat this week I hope.

John