Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I'll be getting ready to start my fresh rebuild motor on my H2B (rebuilt crank, new pistons, Expansion pipes, Uni Air Filters, etc)

I read this link below and was extremely insightful and just wanted to recap and see if everything is covered:

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2026&hilit=first+start+motor

Pre-Start Check List (In no appearant priority listing)

- Motor grounded
- Float levels set/Carbs cleaned/Initial sync'd
- Repack silencers
- Check oil in reservoir for obstructions/Bleed oil line to pump/No need to pre-mix
- Check kill switch operation
- Check throttle cable operation
- Oil in Tranny (1-1/2 Qt)
- Dino oil in cylinders (does this apply to honed walls and WHAT IS DINO OIL)
- Petcock set on Prime

Post-Start Check List (no particular order)

- Hold oil pump to MAX/Bleed lines to carbs/crank
- Set carb idle
- Set timing w/light
- sync carbs
- check charging circuit
- Re-torque heads/exhaust collars for 3 heat cycles

Is that about right?
What is DINO oil? Is there an equivalent?
How many miles to break-in? Under 5K RPM?

Let me know if i've forgotten anything important. Thanks. And yes I will say a small prayer in advance as well..........

_________________
Mike
________________________
1995 Yamaha Vmax VMX12G
1974 Kawasaki H2 750
1986 Kawasaki KDX200
________________________

dino oil= not synthetic oil

_________________
downwind of three mile island

dino oil= non synthetic oil...just cheap old 2t oil

_________________
downwind of three mile island

dino oil, made out of dinasaurs.......

recheck head torque after heat cycles until they stabilize.

break in:

no long steady state riding

no long heavy load riding

10 or so miles of varied rpm riding

rev to 5-6 grand in first and then let the motor pull the bikes speed down do a few times

then second gear the same

get another 20 miles of varied rpm, rev out in 1st to 7 or 8 grand like above

and in second the same.

you should be good to go.

There are many ways to break in. This is my reccomendation.

I do it differently, but it's too scary for most guys.......

_________________
Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

I just gotta say my funny parts.

+++
Pre-Start Check List (In no appearant priority listing)
- Motor grounded (sometimes yes, sometimes no)
- Float levels set/Carbs cleaned/Initial sync'd (if wrong will piss gas).
- Repack silencers (what are silencers?).
- Check oil in reservoir for obstructions/Bleed oil line to pump/No need to pre-mix (if it seizes you'll know was blocked).
- Check kill switch operation (frame tied to stout object, jam in gear to kill).
- Check throttle cable operation (only frayed a little - it'll be fine).
- Oil in Tranny (1-1/2 Qt) - (hot summer overflow puddle check).
- Dino oil in cylinders (does this apply to honed walls and WHAT IS DINO OIL) (Dinosaurs in my cylinders?)
- Petcock set on Prime (pingle and clear lines, Yup OK).

Post-Start Check List (no particular order)

- Hold oil pump to MAX/Bleed lines to carbs/crank (actually I do this, see air bubbles bleed out).
- Set carb idle (3000 is a good idle speed)
- Set timing w/light (need the right timing light).
- sync carbs (I actually had to hunt the local hobby store for Popsicle sticks).
- check charging circuit (if battery goes dead you'll know it's not charging).
- Re-torque heads/exhaust collars for 3 heat cycles (heads yes, exhaust - they're gonna leak anyway).

Is that about right? (good enough)
What is DINO oil? Is there an equivalent? (new in-vogue term for Dinosaur oil)
How many miles to break-in? Under 5K RPM? (not many miles needed, vary RPM's, don't baby it - little fast run, little slow run, some in between, all you want to do is seat the rings).

bb

_________________
This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...

Damit Moo, do we need to call each other so we don't post the same thing at the same time

_________________
This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...

Our unverses are in tune Dude..........

_________________
Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Thanks for the break-in recommendations, Ja-Moo. I'll assume the check list is complete then.

_________________
Mike
________________________
1995 Yamaha Vmax VMX12G
1974 Kawasaki H2 750
1986 Kawasaki KDX200
________________________

That's all I can think of.........

_________________
Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Well, i've been at work trying to finish the last few things I need before I can start running down the check list to starting the motor.....

I have two issues left:

1.) Front brake upgrade to twin '96? two-pot Ninja calipers. Also new braided lines and rebuild kit for m/c. OEM 1/2" m/c btw. The Problem: Installed the m/c kit a while back couldn't bleed up properly. Got back on it recently and pulled out the m/c internals, checked everything over, reinstalled per microfiche drawing and attempted to bleed up. No change. What's happening is first lever pull stops about one finger thickness away from bar. Second pull is like 3/4 to where it s/b. Third pull is rock hard and would be awesome if that happened on pull# 1. If you hold onto the lever pressure remains. If you let go for more than 10 sec. then it goes back to how it was and you need three more lever pulls. I believe everything is good from the calipers up to the m/c. I figure I either have an air bubble that just won't come out or something is still malfunctioning in the m/c. From these symptoms does anyone have theories as to which it might be? Or something else? Don't believe not having a 5/8" bore m/c is the culprit. I have one to try next but I would think this would be a performance issue under panic stopping not sitting in the garage lift. Am I wrong on this?

2.) Oil line assembly. I want to take the eye-bolts on the crankcase end off to inspect/clean/adjust the checkballs & springs in there. Got the write-ups on how to do it already but they won't budge for removal. Been soaking in penetrating oil for a bit and I don't believe they've ever been apart for the life of the bike. Any suggestions to release the threads without breaking anything. I would think heat is not an option with the plastic in the area.

As usual thanks in advance for any and all advice.......

_________________
Mike
________________________
1995 Yamaha Vmax VMX12G
1974 Kawasaki H2 750
1986 Kawasaki KDX200
________________________