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 Post subject: Premix vs Oil injection
PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 7:29 am 

Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2012 11:38 am
Posts: 28
Location: Pittsburgh, Pa
I was thinking of premixing the fuel for my 74 H1 instead of using the oil injection. I just can't get myself to completely trust the oil pump. If i premix what would be the ratio? Also i would have to block the oil injection line true? Thanks.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 11:57 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
jokozl wrote:
I was thinking of premixing the fuel for my 74 H1 instead of using the oil injection. I just can't get myself to completely trust the oil pump. If i premix what would be the ratio? Also i would have to block the oil injection line true? Thanks.


100s of 1000's triple used the pump, almost all still do. Would you take the oil pump off your car? Just make sure your check valves are working correctly and you are good to go.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 12:26 pm 

Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2011 3:15 am
Posts: 224
Location: Kingdom of the Netherlands
I agree with JA on this. Bear in mind that it's not just a small matter of removing the pump and oil lines. On the H1 and H2, the LH main bearings of each cylinder are pump-fed and the oil from these bearings is then fed to the big-ends. This is accomplished by an oil collector plate for each cylinder, all three of which MUST be removed to run premix, otherwise the LH bearings simply won't receive any oil. This means splitting the cases, then taking the crankshaft apart to remove those three collectors.
Still think it's worthwhile????


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 12:38 pm 

Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2012 11:38 am
Posts: 28
Location: Pittsburgh, Pa
Seems its not that simple. I guess i'll have to trust the pump. Thanks for the replies


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 4:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9840
Location: North Central NC
There is a simple test procedure for checking pump output in the Kaw manual, available on the resource site. Get a set of reusable Parker Stat-O-Seals to replace the aluminum washers on the small banjo bolts, and be gentle when tightening them. Make sure the little screen in the oil tank's bottom fitting isn't plugged with 40 years of gook. Use 2-stroke oil in the tank, but don't ask which one is best. :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 1:05 pm 

Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2011 1:49 am
Posts: 348
Location: Pacifica, CA
Ja-Moo,

Any idea why Kawasaki checks need 4+psi cracking pressure but just as example the Rotax checks have near none but wont pass fluid due to gravity?

Don

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 1:46 pm 
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don k wrote:
Ja-Moo,

Any idea why Kawasaki checks need 4+psi cracking pressure but just as example the Rotax checks have near none but wont pass fluid due to gravity?

Don


Not really. I can only "guess" the Rotax is a reed motor and the oil port is not exposed to the crancase compression.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 3:00 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:40 pm
Posts: 645
Location: Helsinki Finland
Add a little oil to the gas, some 1%. Little bit more smoke but gives you some back-up in case of malfunction - I guess the only thing that could happen is one of the oil lines sucks air for some reason. Easy to see before/after each ride.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 9:31 am 

Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 11:37 pm
Posts: 726
Location: SUNRISE FLORIDA USA
Trust the oil pump. Repair the oil pump. Use the oil pump. 32 to1 untill it's fixed. (Been there) ;)

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1972 H2, modified and Tracy bodied. 77 Kawi 1000. Lime green. Cafe. Lester wheels.


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