Kawi2strokes.com Forum

A few observations. These coils can be rewound successfully, after all, they were wound in Japan OK and many have lasted many many years. The limited success, especially the UK guys have had with the KH400 may be due to the way it has been done.
It is very important to wind each layer with the wires side by side, and a thin insulating layer of tape between each layer. The idea is to prevent large voltage differentials between two adjacent wires. With nice even windings, each turn will have just a volt or two between them, and the relatively thin enamel insulation will insulate without problems. If two adjacent turns have more than 30 to 40 volts between them, shorted turns are very likely as the insulation eventually breaks down. This will cause arcing and a local hot spot, further damaging the coil. The most likely trouble spots are at each end, where the top winding could be 1oo volts or more to the next layer down. Here, it is necessary to stop the windings slightly short to guarantee they wont slip down past the end cheek. Its also good to drown the winding in varnish...polyurethane is good for this, as winding proceeds. Polyurethane, as other varnish products has a little "give", and allows for thermal expansion and contraction without straining any individual wires.This makes the winding a more or less solid mass, where moisture is kept out, and heat can get away faster. This also stops vibration chaffing the enamel coating, as there will be no relative motion between turns. With High voltage ignition coils , the best are oil filled. This removes heat by convection, and acts as a self healing insulator if the coil specs are ever exceeded.... an internal flashover will usually not be as catastrophic. When winding these coils, aim for neatness first. The number of turns is relatively unimportant..... 10 percent up and down in reality will have little effect. The H/L mag coil concept is a huge compromise, and can tolerate very loose parameters. Factory wound coils can appear very rough and ready, but each are tested well beyond their operating voltage area before use... its cheaper to throw a few out than to spend extra time in the manufacture of each one. Besides, it does create a lucrative secondary spare parts supply service.

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http://3cyl.com/mraxl/starfire/starfire.htm

Do the exit wires from the coil have to be on either side of the mounting location? What about the 2 wire connections, inside of coil go to white, outside of coil to green? I swapped them last night after I had re-installed the original coil a second time and got spark again. The first time I put the coil in I had the wires reversed
and got zero spark.

The direction of coil wind on the pole piece (center) will determine which ends need to be connected where...i.e., if coil winds cw, the leads would need to be reversed from how it would be if coil was wound ccw. Hope that makes sense.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

OK... that to me suggests your rectifier box requires a rebuild... one diode is buggered. Have a chat to my old mate Jim.....
Oh wait. Are we talking about the same thing here? Are you messing now with a different coil or the same one.? Have you disconnected the coil wires from the harness in the mag housing? Put everything back the way it was first. Then check for spark. Then, if no spark, swap the white and green. If now spark, the rectifier box is shagged. If still no spark, coil stuffed. Always do just ONE thing at a time when diagnosing a fault.
If you have removed the original coil and have the ends mixed up, as Mraxl said, it needs to be wired back to the green/white/blue must be connected correctly. find the center tap first. One end will measure high, around 180 ohms to the center, one will measure low.. around 4 to 6 ohms. The common wire for these measurements is the tapping. This connects to green. The high end goes to white, low end to blue.

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http://3cyl.com/mraxl/starfire/starfire.htm

I found the bad connection on the original low speed coil and have that one working again but it's only giving about 150ohms. So after hours I'm back where I started. Bike will run but with such a week spark it's hard to start. I bought another stator so if I don't have any luck making a low speed coil the used one measured 198 on the low speed coil. Jim is making me a new rectifier box this week so I hope to have it sorted soon. I think I want to buy your HVU box so I don't have to worry about another low speed coil. Thanks for all your advice Dayle.