Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Here's hoping anyway!! There is a new spring plate on the way right now.

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'You don't stop riding because your getting old, you get old because you stop riding'

71 Kawasaki H1A
2005 MV Agusta 1000s
1990 TZ 250A (Reverse Cylinder)
1996 RS 250R Honda
1996 RS 250 Aprilia

It takes almost no movement to disengage the clutch......

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Ade, in my experience I have found the maker of the non-metallic plates makes a big difference in a clutch that drags or not. I have had plates that even lifted to the maximum of the clutch release still drag and others that when they are just disengaged they don't drag at all.

Another thing is the clutch release, as has been discussed they have varying amounts of lift, and your handlebar lever style also dictates your clutch release travel, on my H1 I have a "dog leg" style lever to get as much lift as possible, and I use a Kawasaki release to get the most "lift".

The H1A clutch is touchy and keep in mind as it wears it loses clearance on the push rod.

I use Golden Spectro Gear oil, I have found the brand of gear box oil also makes a huge difference; I had one bike that the clutch would not act right unless it has Golden Spectro in it. No kidding, I have used it ever since.

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Using a poorly conceived idea along with bad mechanical practice is not an upgrade but rather a recipe for disaster.

Ade,

I sent you a PM with pictures. Did you find another another spring plate...or are you referring to mine?

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71 A7SS, 73 H1D, 75 H2C, 85 RG400
92 NSR250 MC21, 93 TZR250 3XV
03 ZRX 1200R

I also just installed the German made actuator, same concern-the throw on the stock one is faster. I might try to use a different lever if it gets me more travel. I have the 15 plate conversion and while the new actuator is much easier to pull, either travel or speed of actuation seems to be a problem.
I'm gonna fiddle with it some more, if not hopefully I can return it-

Best,
JB
Miami

You really only have 2 choices. It's the difference between coarse and fine thread. The courser thread (stock) moves faster but with more effort. The finer thread moves slower with less effort. I have used both, and the finer thread takes a bit to get used to, but after a bit, it becomes as natural as the old acuator. And the distance is not a big deal, as as soon as the pressure is off the plates, the clutch frees up. And that's usualy a few thousands. The "mod" works very well, and is a great update.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

+1 to what Moo said and be patient with adjustment. It took me a good while to me the Sytech exactly right, but it's a huge improvement once you lock it in.

Let's see if I get used to it, certainly feels very different. But it also seems like the new one doesn't travel as far(?) Maybe because I have the 15 plate system, but then again the stock actuator adjusted was doing the job. So maybe I need a little more travel on my clutch lever. Maybe I can shave off let's say 1/8 inch where it meets the base so there's a bit more travel when I pull it-
Still thinking the stock one acts faster, engages towards the end. With the new one, I can feel the plates start to meet way earlier, less than half way through then fully engage way at the end
I'll play with it for the next few hours, maybe what I need is a bit more travel

Thanks again for the input

It was just explained......... Old is fast (coarse) new is slow (fine) Movement is reduced. Get a dog leg lever for more lever travel. Or do the mod. As it is, there is a very fine line between slipping and dragging. You have to make sure the arm is as far down as possible, with 1/8 turn backed off for expansion.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Ade

what gearbox oil are you using?

I would suggest putoline (or similar) light gear oil, run it in my H1's with no problems

Gary T

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Wine for my men we ride at dawn