Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Five of the stator coils are used for charging... one is for ignition.
There are two connectors attached to the coils, both have two wires.
The one with two yellow wires connects to the charging coils, the one with a brown and orange wire connects to the ignition winding.
The ignition winding should read 116ohms +/- 24ohms between the two leads.
The charge windings should measure 0.25ohms +/- 0.05ohms between leads. (A digital meter would need to be used for this.) And there should be an infinite reading when either lead is measured to case ground.
Without seeing first hand it is difficult to tell what needs to be done. If the rotor actually damaged the winding(s) it should be visible.
If the charge windings show a reading when measured to case ground it would indicate a short that may be able to be corrected by inserting a piece of insulating material between the coil and the casing. If there is a higher than specified reading between the two leads it would indicate that a wire in the coil has been severed and needs to be rejoined.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

Mraxl, Have a look at the above pic. It appears there may actually be two higher voltage coils for the CDI (at the 9:00 and 7:00 position). The remaining 4 coils all share the same heavy gauge wire that would indicate they are the alternator coils for the "12 V" system.

J

http://www.3cyl.com/mraxl/manuals/hseries/sec7.pdf
See page 146 & 149.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

There is conflicting information. The manual keeps saying there are 5 charging coils, yet says they are wired series-parallel, which would indicate four. The drawing on page 149 shows 4, wired series-parallel, and Jeff's photo shows four. My vote is that there are four charging coils, wired series-parallel, and the manual's reference to five is wrong.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

+1

J

Thanks for the info. My resistances check out OK, but I've got a short to ground in the yellow wires that I can't find(no visible damage). I've got it mostly disassembled now, and I actually can't tell if there are 4 or 5 coils. I THINK there are only 4, but the 7 o'clock wrapped coil MIGHT also be a charging coil. It's wires run along the 5 o'clock coil, then I loose them, so I can't tell if they actually wrap around the coil or are just routed that way. I'll know for sure when I start unwinding. I hand wind a whole lot of brushless motors, but this isn't nearly as straight forward.

Speaking of unwinding, it's not apparent how the coils actually come off the stator frame. Does anybody know if the coils come off, or will I have to wind in place?

If you can "unbend" the hold down tabs, they will come off.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Look at the winding tutorial on the resource site for ideas on how to do it. It shows the low speed magneto winding, but the method should work on charging coils too.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

I've got a question. The stator coils are originally wound with 17ga wire. All I have available is 18ga wire. I don't use enough amps to worry about the power handling capability of the thinner wire. The Glenn's manual states a specific ohm rating for the charging coils(.22-.26 ohms in my case). The thinner wire has a greater resistance than the original wire so I'd need fewer turns around the coil to get the same resistance. So here's my question: Which is more important, getting the specified ohm reading or having the same number of turns as original? Thanks for the help

Turns are what you need to match. You won't notice the difference between 17ga and 18ga wire. The "17ga" is probably metric... at least that's my guess.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.