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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 5:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9841
Location: North Central NC
Ja-Moo wrote:
Wet plugs will short through the gas. This can leave a carbon track which can't be seen, but the spark will follow it, and not jump the gap. It may be the surface finish on the NGKs that make it easier for a carbon track to form. There is a way to do this on plugs to screw with your buddies, but I'm NOT going to tell you lot! :P

Install three plugs from Barry's can full of bad ones?

I have good luck taking the crappy ones and sandblasting until they look new, filing the center electrode square so it has a sharp edge again, removing all traces of sand from around the porcelain, and re-gapping. I know that not everyone thinks this is a good thing to do, but it works for me.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3825
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
Zambia wrote:
I've run them through the wire wheel and still no joy!

Barry, that's hilarious that you won't throw them out...me too :oops: And then I actually go to the trouble of trying them again later because they look so good. Guess what? They still don't work!


Crack me up - yeah I do that too. Worse yet is I re-use the same old batch of plugs on my truck. I'll change out 8 bad ones for 8 "new" bad ones and then get new-new ones... frack.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 6:32 am 

Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2011 4:10 pm
Posts: 291
Location: Knottingley, West Yorkshire UK
Have you dine a leak down test on the crank seals?

Gary T

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 8:22 am 

Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2011 1:58 pm
Posts: 24
Location: Noblesville, indiana
good idea and discussion on the plugs. but when I got it running last fall, even a plug swap between the cyls would not make the problem go away in the left cyl. one would think the problem would follow the fouled/bad plug but it didn't. Yes they are EBAY NGK's.

also , yes I was running premix with the pump fully open in priming the pump so that might be a reason the machine won't fire up now with fouled plugs. I will try new plugs, a cheap test at least.

i thought hard and long about a leak down test, but wouldn't a bad seal cause probs in 2 cylinders? and cause compression to be low in 1 or 2 cyls? didn't want to spend days fabricating a testing unit.. tearing the engine down. and I still get 145 compression on all 3. Could I have equal compression in all 3 with a bad crank seal?

I was always taught that a plug is a plug. if they foul, blast them clean and they are as good as new. never heard of something internal to them that they might be ruined after fouling. but maybe you guys are right..

I had a discussion with Jim, perhaps I am over thinking this and just need to throw some money at it.
I am sending my CDI units to him for a rebuild. I hope after his rebuild and a fresh set of plugs will solve my problem

I never checked the pickup gaps, but also I have never touched them so I figured that the pickup gaps and the timing could not have changed and caused my problem.

we will see, stand by for a couple of weeks.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 8:38 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:36 am
Posts: 2694
Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
Compression and leakdown (bad crank seals) are two totally separate things. One has nothing to do with the other.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 9:30 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:04 pm
Posts: 1967
Location: Nottingham U.K. / Traverse City Mi
joewill wrote:

I had a discussion with Jim, perhaps I am over thinking this and just need to throw some money at it.
I am sending my CDI units to him for a rebuild. .



I am still going for drowning in oil :thumbup: Without wishing to take the bread off Jims table, I have tested MANY hundreds of ignition boxes and generally they either work or they don't, One in a couple of hundred will have an internal breakdown and be shorting out (ALWAYS in the same place) :
.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNtv638B93M
.
The common problem with the ignition units is that the rectifier works but does not pass enough voltage, it will supply enough to run the bike but not at full efficiency .

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 11:35 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9841
Location: North Central NC
The last thing I want to do is sell someone something he doesn't need, taking bread off that man's table, but in joewill's first post, I understood that he used a spark tester with an adjustable gap, as well as plugs lying on the heads, and got weak sparks only once every few kicks. This was the same for all three cylinders. With all the good testing he's done, my bet was on the ignition rectifier unit having a bad diode, probably one of the two that rectify the output of the low speed winding.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 2:55 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2011 5:38 am
Posts: 111
Location: Ludvika, Sweden
Hi

This might be totaly wrong but how about electrical earthing.
Sometimes when you change everything and nothing helps a check of earthing cables might help.

My 2 cents

Bjorn


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 3:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Get new plugs and check the spark before trying to start it.......

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 10:13 pm 

Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2011 1:58 pm
Posts: 24
Location: Noblesville, indiana
mraxl wrote:
Compression and leakdown (bad crank seals) are two totally separate things. One has nothing to do with the other.


Don't they in a 2-stroke world? The more pressure you can build up in the crankcase, the more gets fed into the intake charge, and therefor more compression pressure? doesn't a crank seal keep that pressure from leaking out or leaking into the crankcase, or across crankcase chambers?

just thinking about the old 2-stroke theory I was taught 30 years ago! Correct me if I am wrong, I have forgotten so much thruout the decades...

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