Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I'm curious to learn what has been going on with regard 2 stroke oil and the delivery of it when using a pump as the efficiency of 2 stroke oil has improved a great deal since the time these engines were designed.

'Back in the day' I used Shell 2T, but in these days of highly developed 'synthetics' which are much more efficient I was wondering what folk are now doing and what folk think about using Castrol Power 1. Does the pump need to be backed off a bit if you do use these oils, I am curious if the pump is now putting in more oil than the engine actually really needs.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-732-castrol ... e-oil.aspx

It has a bearing for me, as to play safe I'm still setting my pump so the mark is on the full open mark when the slides are fully open, is this correct as the pix in the manual I have are very bad, does it matter where the pump returns too when the motor is idling?

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'You don't stop riding because your getting old, you get old because you stop riding'

71 Kawasaki H1A
2005 MV Agusta 1000s
1990 TZ 250A (Reverse Cylinder)
1996 RS 250R Honda
1996 RS 250 Aprilia

If we can use the famous Australian Victa 2-stroke lawnmower as an example, they recommend 25:1 for mineral based oils, and 50:1 for the current synthetics. I am building a modified H2 engine, and have decided to use a H1 (500) oil-pump, and, of course, modern oil - probably Yamalube mineral oil. Hope this helps, rather than confuses!! Just 1 opinion.

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.

You are right about modern oils. It won't hurt to back the pump off a bit.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

The Kaw manual says to set the pump so the two marks are aligned when the slides just start to open. When the cable is relaxed, they don't quite line up yet.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

The pump is not progressive. The gear moves a cammed piston to pump oil. There is just a stroke restrictor up to about 1/8th throttle, then full stroke. The looser the cable, the later the restricted stroke is.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Due to the quality of the synthetic oil I altered the setting of my H2- oil pump. Now the lever of the oil pump starts moving at about 4000 rpm. Since more than 40000 miles I haven't experienced any problems - just my 2 cents.

Throttles wide open with the dot/line method seems to work well with an H1A. This will give about 500 miles (800kms) per liter consumption (average riding), which seems to work well.

Choice of oils around here is like which is better: grapefruits or oranges..... If the bike lives outside filthy old dino tends to protect the bearings from rust better.....

J

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Thanx for that Looney Cylinders

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'You don't stop riding because your getting old, you get old because you stop riding'

71 Kawasaki H1A
2005 MV Agusta 1000s
1990 TZ 250A (Reverse Cylinder)
1996 RS 250R Honda
1996 RS 250 Aprilia

I've been riding with the marks almost aligned, probably a mm below. I use Klotz castor, in FL it doesn't get too cold and I haven't had any problems. As far as I can recall, castor isn't really recommended for pumps, but since the '74 sends some of the oil to the bowls it kind of pre mixes part of it.
I just ordered new rings, cylinders are in good shape, crank and bearings too. It wouldn't make sense to get new pistons right now-they were stuck(I ride quite a bit) so if castor does give you sticky rings the trade off is your crank and bearings are well protected
I have thought of using the klotz synthetic/castor supertechniplate if it makes a difference-any thoughts on sticky rings? And maybe I should back the pump off a bit?

Best,
JB