Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Does anyone know where the best place is to get a vacuum bleeder for a reasonable price? I would like to get one to the clutch on my GPz and also to used on brakes here and there?

Thanks in advance.

For bleeding - like this ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUTO-SILVER-LINE-MITYVAC-HAND-PUMP-w-MANY-ACCESSORIES-/230732617986?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item35b8bc5902#ht_1181wt_1344

I have one, works fine and reasonable cost.

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...

That looks like it could be it. Do I need to get one of those one way check valves to put on in place of the bleeder screw/bolt?

I don't use that method, never has worked as well as other methods.

Could you elaborate on the other methods?

I use this on my cars since I don't have kids around to pump and hold pedals. On bikes, ain't worth it - pretty limited system, easier to do it by hand.

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...

Almost any NAPA store has the bare bones Mity-Vac on the shelf. I have had mine for almost twenty years and it has never even needed the seals replaced. It is a handy item. I have used it to bleed brakes on everything from a VFR750R to a John Deere combine. Its also handy for evacuating the fluid from a power steering pump, master cylinder etc when wanting to change fluid. Worked great for setting my oil line check valves with Tom V's test set up. I like using it because you can view the fluid you are taking out and look for color, foreign matter, moisture, etc Sales pitch over....its just a handy thing to have in the toolbox no matter what your intended use is.

Gravity bleeding: this method is the ONLY one that ensures DOR5 silicone fluids do not attract and hold air bubbles. This method is one of the best for other fluids as well, all the DOT's and mineral oils used on dirt bikes. I also use this method to bleed master cylinders ON THE VEHICLE, and never bench bleed a master off the bike/car.

I have had a lot of people over the years bring me vehicles, both bike and car/truck, that others in our areas simply could not get brake systems to work/bleed correctly. In almost EVERY situation, proper gravity or pressure bleeding fixed the bleed issues straight off. Yes, there were other issues, like dirty rubber parts that allowed fluid bypass, and when cleaned up and gravity/pressure bled, got easily resolved.

Pressure bleeding: works for very long line runs to simply push fluids through open systems better than using the master cylinder push pressures only to fill the system.

The main issue I have with the pressure bleed method is (and I own two very nice Mity-Vac bleeder kits), is that it is way, way too easy to induce air bubbles as part of the pulling process, even when the greatest care is used.

There are other methods, but they aren't relevant.