Kawi2strokes.com Forum

The H1 has never leaked the H2 on the other hand... thoroughly annealed gaskets, rough gasket surface finish,Copper gasket sealer (spray Permatex) and a strong 30# no leaks.

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Using a poorly conceived idea along with bad mechanical practice is not an upgrade but rather a recipe for disaster.

Joe, you being a machinist and all, sometime you might try turning some concentric rings with a triangular cross-section on the head's surface, so the tops of the triangles dig into the copper gasket. Then face the surface outside the rings a little. A dry annealed gasket seals every time. I did this one over 30 years ago, so some corrosion set in, but as you can see, no oil got past the 1st or 2nd ring.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

and just a thought , clean all threads and lightly lube them before assemble , this increases the actual torque applied to the gasket by reducing frixtion in threads , re-aniel gaskets , I like the extra goove Idea as well , on old engines when doing rebuilds it is common to helli coil alloy so as not to have them pull out half way through reassembly , due to metal fatigue

You will over torque with oiled threads......

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Never used a tourque wrench on H1/ H2 heads

If I have got a leak, I remove all the heads and then get some valve grinding paste, place it on 4 points on the mating surface of the head IE North, South, East, West.

Then use a figure of 8 motion to "lap" the heads to the barrels.

This has worked for me

Gary T

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Wine for my men we ride at dawn

All the manufactures I have worked for specify tensions are for lubed threads, if your using a tension wrench your still only tightening to spec but without binding of threads and bolt heads , late model tensions are done by angles after minimal first tension , to ensure correct and equal tension over all bolts , eg - 20ft lb +45deg +45 deg etc ( this is only an example)

Interesting, here in the states, it's clean dry threads.........

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Factory manual says a lightly oiled 26 ft/lbs torque, dry gasket, but, you then MUST have a clean, FLAT gasket surface on both parts.

I never did an H2 that didn't get its heads torqued to 35 ft/lbs, always made sure the surfaces were FLAT, and never did use stuff like K&W Copper Coat.

I also never had a stock, or wasted center (reduced diameter) H2R stud pull out of a case, either. I also NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use any kind of thread repair like a Heli-Coil or other repair to fix a pulled cylinder thread that came in, I welded the case, surfaced the gasket surface, and drilled/tapped the stud hole.

[quote="H2RTuner" torqued to 35 ft/lbs, [/quote]

My kinda guy!

I do use a little anti-seize on the BASE/UNTHREDED part of the stud though. Thinking of the guy who finds my bike in a field 20 years from now

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...

PS - Gary - - Holly sent me another carb today - has all the little bits on it too so I don't need to swap them over. I wonder if this one will work

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...