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P.K.
PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 3:05 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 3:22 pm
Posts: 326
Location: Holmestrand, NORWAY
BarryB wrote:
Having done this a few times in the past, I use initial 30lbs and same again after a good heat cycle and an occasional check when I remember. No worries that I can see (spigot leaks blowing all over the cyls makes it hard to tell) - - - just kidding :lol: :lol: :lol:

Oh and I reuse the coppers all the time after annealing them, nary a problem.

What DOES freak me out is I can't find the torque values in my Kawasaki Factory Shop manual or my Clymer (that's a virtual clone of the Factory one)....

Dales site has a nice reference sheet of torque values and I use it.


Bottom of page 17: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/399336/Pictures/Posted/Page%2017.pdf

PK
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hooktool
PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 11:44 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 12:10 am
Posts: 280
Location: Cane Ridge (Nashville), TN
What manual is that from? Is there a way to get the entire PDF? :) Please?

John
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BarryB
PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 11:56 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3826
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
P.K. wrote:
BarryB wrote:
Having done this a few times in the past, I use initial 30lbs and same again after a good heat cycle and an occasional check when I remember. No worries that I can see (spigot leaks blowing all over the cyls makes it hard to tell) - - - just kidding :lol: :lol: :lol:

Oh and I reuse the coppers all the time after annealing them, nary a problem.

What DOES freak me out is I can't find the torque values in my Kawasaki Factory Shop manual or my Clymer (that's a virtual clone of the Factory one)....

Dales site has a nice reference sheet of torque values and I use it.


Bottom of page 17: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/399336/Pictures/Posted/Page%2017.pdf

PK



I'll be Darned!!!! You're right!!! and it says 30lbs too - awesomeness.
bb

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...
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Jim
PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:13 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9851
Location: North Central NC
hooktool wrote:
What manual is that from? Is there a way to get the entire PDF? :) Please?

John

That's from the Kawasaki manual, and it's on Dale's resource site, in both page by page format, and in a complete PDF file. It's the one in this link called "H Series Shop Manual".

http://3cyl.com/mraxl/manuals/downloads.htm

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.
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hooktool
PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 1:03 am 
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Posts: 280
Location: Cane Ridge (Nashville), TN
Thanks, Jim. I thought I had all the ones from Dale's site, so I'll check again. :)

John
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BarryB
PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 10:03 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3826
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
BarryB wrote:
P.K. wrote:
BarryB wrote:
Having done this a few times in the past, I use initial 30lbs and same again after a good heat cycle and an occasional check when I remember. No worries that I can see (spigot leaks blowing all over the cyls makes it hard to tell) - - - just kidding :lol: :lol: :lol:

Oh and I reuse the coppers all the time after annealing them, nary a problem.

What DOES freak me out is I can't find the torque values in my Kawasaki Factory Shop manual or my Clymer (that's a virtual clone of the Factory one)....

Dales site has a nice reference sheet of torque values and I use it.


Bottom of page 17: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/399336/Pictures/Posted/Page%2017.pdf

PK


Found it in the Clymer too - small paragraph uncer cylinder removal and installation - get this - it says 16lbs in a crisscross pattern. No mention of model etc...

I'll be Darned!!!! You're right!!! and it says 30lbs too - awesomeness.
bb

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...
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BarryB
PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 10:25 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3826
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
I'm rushed to get out the door and have not confirmed but the pdf is exactly like the shop manual. I have snap of the Clymer below too.

Image

Image

Clymer - 16lbs :o :o :o

Image

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...
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kawabjorn
PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 3:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2011 5:38 am
Posts: 111
Location: Ludvika, Sweden
Hi

Are the H1 head screws 8 mm?

The H2 are M10 and the M10 screw torque according to my general torque manual is 45 Nm (33 lbs) and this corresponds fairly well to 30 lbs.
The M8 torque is 25 Nm (18lbs).

Bjorn
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BarryB
PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 3:49 pm 
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Posts: 3826
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
Honestly for my H2 I set at 30lbs and give it a nudge more. I still can't believe the Clymer says 16lbs. :e5

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...
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Ja-Moo
PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 3:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
BarryB wrote:
Honestly for my H2 I set at 30lbs and give it a nudge more. I still can't believe the Clymer says 16lbs. :e5


Cheap manuals, give you cheap information...... :roll:

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........
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