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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:42 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2011 10:42 am
Posts: 207
Location: Saint Joseph, Michigan
I have a set of Reproduction Decals' bearings for the steering head of my S2A and I'm not that familiar with the installation, though I have done plenty of wheel bearing installs with no problem.

My frame still has the stock races. I assume I have to knock those out. Is this the case?

Also, I ended up having to use a press to get my new swing arm bushings in. Will I have to do the same for these bearings or do they go in rather easily?

I could use some "How To" info. Thanks!

Terry


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:52 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Leemata wrote:
I have a set of Reproduction Decals' bearings for the steering head of my S2A and I'm not that familiar with the installation, though I have done plenty of wheel bearing installs with no problem.

My frame still has the stock races. I assume I have to knock those out. Is this the case?

Also, I ended up having to use a press to get my new swing arm bushings in. Will I have to do the same for these bearings or do they go in rather easily?

I could use some "How To" info. Thanks!

Terry


Of course the old ball bearing races have to be removed. The new races should go in/on tight, but not a big deal. If you are using the stock fork ears, you will need a o ring on each fork tube, as the bearings sit a bit proud. Recheck the bearings after about 1000 miles, as they do settle.

_________________
Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 12:19 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:45 pm
Posts: 328
Location: West Coast
The stock races are quite flat, use care to drive them out as flat as possible. Just hitting on one side will make them spin in the headstock and that could damage the frame which could distort the new races when installing them. If you have a tapered bearing installer that is best to install the new races. The new bearings will be taller when installed so the distance between the triple clamps will be further apart so the orings moo mentioned are for the fork tubes to take up the slack so the headlight ears don't bounce up and down.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 9:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:44 am
Posts: 1159
Location: Bangor, PA
You could probably put the races in the freezer for a couple of hours to "shrink" them down a little to make the install a little easier. You might also try hitting the frame with a heat gun to let it expand a little, but I am not sure if you can get enough heat in to make a difference before you would start to damage paint.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 12:32 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
oxford wrote:
You could probably put the races in the freezer for a couple of hours to "shrink" them down a little to make the install a little easier. You might also try hitting the frame with a heat gun to let it expand a little, but I am not sure if you can get enough heat in to make a difference before you would start to damage paint.


I have never had to use cold or heat, just be accurate. And I hope we are talking about tapered bearings, it wasn't stated.......... :problem:

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 12:43 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:17 am
Posts: 464
Location: Orlando, FL
oxford wrote:
You could probably put the races in the freezer for a couple of hours to "shrink" them down a little to make the install a little easier. You might also try hitting the frame with a heat gun to let it expand a little, but I am not sure if you can get enough heat in to make a difference before you would start to damage paint.


+1
Left the races in the freezer overnight and left the frame in the Florida sun for a few hours. goes in like a dream. They tap in very gently and easily with a wood drift, don't have to beat 7 shades to get them in.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 12:58 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:44 am
Posts: 1159
Location: Bangor, PA
Ja-Moo wrote:

I have never had to use cold or heat, just be accurate. And I hope we are talking about tapered bearings, it wasn't stated.......... :problem:


Your right Moo, you shouldn't have to do it, but could make life a little easier. Being accurate is the most important part though.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 6:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2011 10:42 am
Posts: 207
Location: Saint Joseph, Michigan
Ja-Moo wrote:
Leemata wrote:
I have a set of Reproduction Decals' bearings for the steering head of my S2A and I'm not that familiar with the installation, though I have done plenty of wheel bearing installs with no problem.

My frame still has the stock races. I assume I have to knock those out. Is this the case?

Also, I ended up having to use a press to get my new swing arm bushings in. Will I have to do the same for these bearings or do they go in rather easily?

I could use some "How To" info. Thanks!

Terry


Of course the old ball bearing races have to be removed. The new races should go in/on tight, but not a big deal. If you are using the stock fork ears, you will need a o ring on each fork tube, as the bearings sit a bit proud. Recheck the bearings after about 1000 miles, as they do settle.



OK Moo,

First, yeah they are the tapered set Repro sells .... also with seals.

Two more questions:

Do you use the seals?
What about the race that sits on the bottom of the triple tree. Does that stay?

Thanks for all the input guys. This sight rocks!

Terry


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Leemata wrote:
Ja-Moo wrote:
Leemata wrote:
I have a set of Reproduction Decals' bearings for the steering head of my S2A and I'm not that familiar with the installation, though I have done plenty of wheel bearing installs with no problem.

My frame still has the stock races. I assume I have to knock those out. Is this the case?

Also, I ended up having to use a press to get my new swing arm bushings in. Will I have to do the same for these bearings or do they go in rather easily?

I could use some "How To" info. Thanks!

Terry


Of course the old ball bearing races have to be removed. The new races should go in/on tight, but not a big deal. If you are using the stock fork ears, you will need a o ring on each fork tube, as the bearings sit a bit proud. Recheck the bearings after about 1000 miles, as they do settle.



OK Moo,

First, yeah they are the tapered set Repro sells .... also with seals.

Two more questions:

Do you use the seals?
What about the race that sits on the bottom of the triple tree. Does that stay?

Thanks for all the input guys. This sight rocks!

Terry


Yes, the seals keep crap out of the bit of exposed bearing. And you have to remove all the old races.......

_________________
Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 12:53 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:13 am
Posts: 1001
Location: Auburn Ca
I cleaned the living tar out of mine when the races came out then used a brass drift to intall them as the only question I got on my 72 H2 I couldn't see where an oring was needed as the headlight ear scrapes the trees top and bottom.


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