Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Hi
Why is it so hard to get these bike to start up after a rebuild . 1974 H1 500
i had to split the cases to find the small nut that is part of the nutraul switch it droped in the tranny.
after i found it i sent out my crank to charile smith for a rebuild he dose nice work.


I have all the ingredients that is needed for it to run. grate spark, fuel and good comp,timing
i have kicked this bike over a 100 times and it wants to fire but it wont.
one thing that i notice is when it all most starts it kick backs like it has to much compresson i dont have a gauge to check it.
my leg is ready to fall off will some one make a electric start . like the 2010 KTM 250 2stroke

Thanks
Chris

are the coils firing on proper cyl ??

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downwind of three mile island

The usual "culprit" is crossed plug wires. They may not look crossed but the wiring to the coils could be incorrect. Trace this very carefully just to eliminate that possibility. .... are those lab seals? (I know they are, just kidding as the proponents of rubber seals state that lab seal cranks make for harder starting).

I would guess it's crossed wires. And it's a wives tale about lab seals, they will start just as easy as rubber seals.........

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Hi
when i pulled the motor all i did was take the plug wires off the plugs rebuild the motor and put it back in 150 kicks later still wont start what i hunk of S**t.( if this is try lab seal cranks make for harder starting) i am a believer of that

Something got changed somehow. A freshly rebuilt engine isn't any harder to start than one that's been sitting for a few days, and won't take more than 3-4 kicks unless something is wrong. Make sure the engine is well grounded to the frame. Maybe there was a ground wire you didn't replace?

You had to disconnect the wires between your alternator and the ignition system when you removed the engine. Mixing up two of the wires between the alternator and the coils would result in these symptoms.

I'm assuming you have the late H1 CDI ignition system, which as one small box and one larger box, mounted on a plate, and uses a sort of distributor that's built in the alternator to choose what plug to fire.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

maybe a stupid question...was it running before you tore it down ?

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downwind of three mile island

A backfire is a huge indication of crossed wires. Did you unplug the stator and remove it with the motor, or left in on the frame? And every RD in the world, snow mobile , jetski/watercraft would be hard to start, as they have lab seals. I run them exclusively, and when tuned properly, 1 or 2 kicks for the last decade. The guys that blame lab seals, have no understanding of how they work.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Well, I understand that there have been a few made with way too much clearance, leading to hard starting and low power. That's not the problem here though.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

I understand exactly how they work. RD's watercraft, and snowmobiles were designed with lab seals in mind. The triples were not. Look at an RD seal. It is 1.5" wide. The narrow seal on the H2 is about 3/8ths" wide. Put 2 identical H2s next to each other (one with labs and one with rubber seals) rev them a bit from idle and I will pick out the bike with labs every time.