Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I thought I was almost done. I finally received the missing header insert (18070-011) and put the exhaust together. But when I tightened everything up the headers were still loose, they would rock back and forth a little. The exhaust gasket came with a full motor gasket set, they're about 2.25 mm in thickness. I have new headers but this also happens with the original header. When I tightened the headers down they did not crush the exhaust gaskets.

So, what am I missing? The motor and exhaust came with an H2B roller I bought from California. I'm pretty sure the seller just put it all together from what he had lying around. In fact one of the headers was from a 72. I bought new headers and they look pretty good. I've measured most of the dimensions and they match the original header.

Are there thicker crush gaskets? Do I fill it with silicone goop and let that seal it up?

I've attached a photo which shows that the exhaust holder is snug up against the cylinder. I don't have another motor to compare it to, don't know what the gap between the holder and cylinder should be.

Thanks,

Dave

Here are pipes & connectors for H2:
H2/a
H2/bc
H2/a
H2/bc
It doesn't look to me like the pipes are matching to either but maybe a mismatch between pipes & connectors.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

I have the 18069-049 clamps and the headers in the second picture. The ones with the more robust, 2 step end. The other (earlier) clamp works with the header with a simple flange. That combination won't work because the studs are too short, don't stick through the clamp far enough to spin a nut on.

If there was a crush washer that was 4mm or thicker it would probably work.

Still confused.

I would find some steel piping (Al may be ok too), cut and make a small spacer to sit next to the 'bolt on flange' and press on the header pipe raised area, it would slide over the header. That will push the sucker into the exhaust outlet further. Otherwise I would get longer studs or bolts and take the risk of snapping a stud (on removal) and use the other setup. Another option is to mill the hold down flanges inner surface depth to expose more 'round section'. I do not have the parts in my hand so making the best decision is up to you, but there are options.

Changing the studs is usually not a problem. I've been able to double-nut them, then whack the end with a hammer a couple times and unscrew them. If it's stubborn, heat will help. I understand that you might not want to do this to cylinders that are ready to go though.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

I was thinking that another option is to fit a spacer that goes in between the crush washer and the header to take up the slack. Would only have to be about 2mm in thickness to solve the problem. And some silicone to seal up any chance of leaks.

I still don't understand why this is happening. Even with the original clamp and header it still doesn't fit tight. Does anyone know the thickness of an OEM crush washer?

DC

My guess is that the header pipes are aftermarket and not to spec for H2B/C.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

Problem solved, operator error. My mistake was thinking that the taper of the exhaust holder insert went into the taper of the clamp. That's backwards. The taper of the insert goes towards the header. I was thinking that as the clamp tightened onto the insert it would compress it tighter. In reality the insert just sits inside the small recess in the clamp and no further. Doh!

Thanks for the replies,

Dave