Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Yesterday was a lovely sunny albeit cold day and we decided to take the H1D out of the garage that has been sitting since October, fitted the battery, checked the oil level, put in fresh petrol and it fired up on the third go! the problem was that once the gear was engaged, when the clutch was released, the bike stalled and stalled. there was no way to get going even though we warmed up the engine well, we tried, with the engine off but with the gear engaged, to move the motorcycle back and forth, but every effort was useless. The oil, ATF, was put new in April last year and has run exactly 1223km. The motorcycle has 43,000 km. we have had it for 12 years, bought it with 13,000 km but we don't know if the clutch had been changed, the motorcycle has always worked perfectly. Is it perhaps totally consumed?

It's not unusual for the clutch plates to get stuck together if they've been pushed together for a long time. You can try tying the clutch lever to the handlebar for a few days. I've also had success with pushing the bike and shifting to first gear, then driving around the neighborhood giving it intermittent hard throttle. If that doesn't work, you can tilt the bike to the left pretty far and lean it on something, then remove the clutch cover and pry the plates apart. Tilting the bike, of course, lets you get the cover off without having to drain the transmission oil.

_________________
If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

ATF - JUST PLAIN BAD, too light, is not an oil

Now, pull the oil fill plug out, look down the fill hole, see the plates, use a flat blade screw driver to gently pry the tabs apart, move the clutch to access mote tabs. Do as many as you can.

Then, rock the bike with clutch lever pulled, in gear, should break clutch loose.

The other way I do it, get bike to operating temp. Then, engine running, roll bike and pop into low gear with clutch lever pulled in. Clutch will eventually, fairly quickly free up.

H2RTuner - using a flat blade screwdriver to pry the plates apart through the dipstick hole - that's brilliant! Thanks for another great tip.

Key is, G E N T L Y. You won't be able to get to all the plates through the hole, but enough to get them, and the rest loose.

you are fantastic!! Saturday I try to do everything you told me. thank you all
Paola (Italy)

I had used ATF because I had read about it in some post on this site. is it better to go back to the classic 10W30, or use W80 Gl 5 gear oil?
Paola

_________________
Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

Straight 90, 85W-90, G E A R. O I L S, NOT ATF.

Now, instant trivia quiz: (I know the answer), What does the "W" stand for in a multi-viscosity oil rating? Example: 20W-50.

Second snap quiz: (I know this one, too),What actual viscosity is a Straight 90 weight gear oil when related to a Straight weight engine oil?

If you already know, hold back, let others have a chance, please.

When I got my H2, it had been sitting from 1977 till I got it 2 years ago. You better believe the plates were glued together. There was no salvaging the friction plates, especially since it had heavier springs than stock. The friction plates were bonded to the steel plates.
I'm a little confused by the responses though.
The engine running and with the clutch pulled first gear can be engaged, wouldn't that indicate the clutch plates are releasing? If the clutch plates were sticking together wouldn't it stall as soon as it was put in gear, not when the clutch lever was released?
Also, with the engine off and a gear engaged, even if the clutch was glued together, pushing the bike it should move a bit along with the engine rotating a little.