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 Post subject: Re: Clutch drag
PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2022 3:47 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 06, 2015 6:01 am
Posts: 300
Location: Metamora, MI
Someone quoted,

"4 spline = .450"/90°
6 spline = .430"/90°
BB = .380"/90°
Nicosia = .410"/90°
Gilles = .240/90°"

cliff

ps
My measures,

6=7.24°/mm
BB=9.09°/mm


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 Post subject: Re: Clutch drag
PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2022 7:59 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9840
Location: North Central NC
Hairy-2 wrote:
I've been thinking for a long time that it would be great to have a hydraulic clutch conversion kit for the H2. Were you able to modify existing parts to create your system or did you have parts specially made for this application?


Back then I made the slave cylinder on the lathe, and modified a stock master cylinder to work on the left. In recent years I found that Magura makes nice clutch master cylinders, so I got a 9.5mm from them. The piston diameter is better for this application than the larger stock one.

One of the guys on the Canadian triples board now makes batches of slave cylinders and sells them at a reasonable price.

My reason for going hydraulic was that Barnett plates swell when you get them hot, and after a couple drag starts I couldn't fully disengage the clutch until it cooled off. The self-adjusting nature of the hydraulic system makes that problem go away. 40+ years later those same Barnett plates are still working as well as they did when new.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


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 Post subject: Re: Clutch drag
PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2022 1:53 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2021 5:40 am
Posts: 18
Location: Dallas TX
Very interesting. I'm going to check into doing a hydraulic setup for my H2. Maybe my problem is the plates just aren't being pushed far enough apart to fully disengage.
Thank you very much for the info.


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 Post subject: Re: Clutch drag
PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2022 2:18 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9840
Location: North Central NC
There's definitely something wrong if a stock actuator in good condition won't release the plates more than you're describing.

Here's are a couple of the threads about the hydraulic actuators on the Canadian board:

https://triplescanada.proboards.com/thr ... c-clutches
https://triplescanada.proboards.com/thr ... structions

And the PDF instructions from the resource site: http://kawatriple.com/tips/hydclutch/hydclutchinst.pdf

And the main hydraulic clutch page from that site: http://kawatriple.com/hydpusher.htm

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


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 Post subject: Re: Clutch drag
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2022 11:40 am 

Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2019 4:59 am
Posts: 51
Location: Bologna Italy
I make a questions : is the position of the frictions discs correct? That is, are the discs with short ears passing under the basket ring in the correct place?


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 Post subject: Re: Clutch drag
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2022 10:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:52 pm
Posts: 849
Location: South Louisiana
This has been a good read. This is how a forum is supposed to be. Thanks. Iron on the Bayou.

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 Post subject: Re: Clutch drag
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2022 6:40 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2021 5:40 am
Posts: 18
Location: Dallas TX
Thanks for the info on the Canadian boards. I will check them out. As for the positioning of the friction discs with the short ears, yes, I've been very careful to make certain the clutch basket ring is not interfering with friction discs as they move out. I measured the distance the pusher moves when the clutch lever is pulled to the handle bar and its 1/8 inch with the factory plastic release device. I have tryed a metal (brass and steel) release device but it doesn't move the pusher as far. I thought that was my problem. That's why I went back to the factory release. Unfortunately, the clutch dragging remains. I've never had a mechanical problem on any motorcycle beat me but after 17 months of trying everything imaginable (including replacing everything) to get this clutch to work properly, I'm just about to throw in the towel. About the only thing I haven't tried is filling the trans with 1972 transmission oil that the factory recommended. Anybody have a couple of non-Ford type 1972 vintage quarts of ATF laying around? ;-)


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 Post subject: Re: Clutch drag
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2022 7:14 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9840
Location: North Central NC
The problem isn't the oil.

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 Post subject: Re: Clutch drag
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2022 8:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:03 am
Posts: 4604
Location: Milang, South Australia
Two things come to mind... If you don't adjust the H1/H2 clutch exactly by the book, you can get drag, (and clutch slip). And I have owned Kawasaki sports bikes for 50 odd years and I don't think I've had one with no clutch drag. It's in neutral before you stop, right?! All you are doing is starting off..... :think:

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 Post subject: Re: Clutch drag
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2022 9:18 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3146
ATF is not suitable for our clutches, nor transmissions. 90 weight gear oil is. In gear pols, the weight rate is twice a motor oil, so, 90 weight gear oil, same as a 45 weight NATURAL engine oil. Synthetics aren't the answer, either.

As far as the stock mechanical releases go, if adjusted "by the book" can allow the clevis and cable at the release to go over center, and not compleately release the clutch pack. Then, there is friction disk soak, Barnett plates soaked oil up when released, causing a progressively more severe drag while released.

A properly done hydraulic release works the best.


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