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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2022 6:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2015 6:31 am
Posts: 124
Location: Orange County, California
Hey Guys,
I've had a couple of Lakeland CDIs for my early H1 builds, and my current one just died. (strange coincidence that just put an "Oregon Motorcycles" solid state regulator on it and the CDI blows 2 rides later :roll: )
In searching for an alternative, I found a couple of CDI sources, but they aren't in the USA, and I'm not even sure if they are still making them or dependable. Who are we using these days for new CDIs on 69-70 500s?
Thanks, Rich


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2023 5:07 pm 

Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2017 5:45 am
Posts: 50
Location: Watton Norfolk, UK
Hello

Same thing happened to me in August. My old Regulator was hitting 17volts, so tried a modern one and second ride, 5 miles from home, pop,sparks went out one at a time. Yep, my lakeland box is fried. Ive tried Rex speed shop in the uk but they are thinking about it but no immediate plans to build one. Starfire is long gone. . Whos next......

I had a volt gauge on and the voltage output was stable nothing crazy when it went.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2023 6:51 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 7:32 pm
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Location: Macon, GA
Scroll down to page 3-4.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14638&hilit=Lakeland&start=30

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2023 10:42 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2015 6:31 am
Posts: 124
Location: Orange County, California
Chris46 wrote:
Hello

Same thing happened to me in August. My old Regulator was hitting 17volts, so tried a modern one and second ride, 5 miles from home, pop,sparks went out one at a time. Yep, my lakeland box is fried. Ive tried Rex speed shop in the uk but they are thinking about it but no immediate plans to build one. Starfire is long gone. . Whos next......

I had a volt gauge on and the voltage output was stable nothing crazy when it went.


I think there's hope. When this happened to me, I followed up on the guys that were supposed to take over and produce the Lakeland CDI. That didn't seem to go anywhere and I'm not going to just wait and hope. I tried the Boyer Brandson adapation from the KH250 points replacement system. Don't waste your time with that! Finally, I ran across a post in a FB group where a guy placed a car CDI unit in his H1. That go me thinking and I have replaced my entire H1 ignition system now with an optical automotive grade units and I have spark. I used a Fast XR3000 system (formerly Crane Cams). I have high hopes it will do just as well and be a little more tolerant to voltage spikes than the Lakeland system.
I'm still fiddling with the solution for the charging system. I'm adapting the Ford regulator and GM diode trio from these plans: http://kawatriple.com/tips/regulator/re ... ersion.htm


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2023 2:09 am 

Joined: Sat Jun 11, 2011 11:11 pm
Posts: 464
Location: New Zealand
Not sure if this helps, but 15 years ago, when I had little money my cdi was fried so I just made my own. All I did was follow the schematic on the resource site. Rectifier as well.
Cheap as chips. Cost more for the potting epoxy than the components.
Come in around 5 bucks each. Glad I did that cos the system is still basically standard.
I have spares on the ready.
Good luck.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2024 6:09 pm 

Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2023 5:52 am
Posts: 37
Location: Manchester UK
COOPS wrote:
Not sure if this helps, but 15 years ago, when I had little money my cdi was fried so I just made my own. All I did was follow the schematic on the resource site. Rectifier as well.
Cheap as chips. Cost more for the potting epoxy than the components.
Come in around 5 bucks each. Glad I did that cos the system is still basically standard.
I have spares on the ready.
Good luck.

Well I`m surprised that worked. The schematic for the B unit on the resource site has the following components missing. Without these it doesn`t work.
5 diodes
2 electrolytic caps 10 microfarad
1 resistor 390 K
2 resistors 75 ohms 5 watts
1 inductor around 500 mH


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2024 8:46 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3825
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
I was curious about Ricks, link below just navigate to your bike. Not as many choices as Jim had and the descriptions need to be better -best to chat with them before.
https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2024 9:41 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9840
Location: North Central NC
BarryB wrote:
I was curious about Ricks, link below just navigate to your bike. Not as many choices as Jim had and the descriptions need to be better -best to chat with them before.
https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/


They're still working on getting all the products going. I recently helped them with some questions they had about the late H1 combined unit. I believe they have a late H1/H2 regulator, but it's not the same design as mine. I assume it works fine as a replacement to the original. As I understand it, they have the H2 All-In-One and the early H1units.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2024 10:20 pm 

Joined: Sat Jun 11, 2011 11:11 pm
Posts: 464
Location: New Zealand
0120raptor wrote:
COOPS wrote:
Not sure if this helps, but 15 years ago, when I had little money my cdi was fried so I just made my own. All I did was follow the schematic on the resource site. Rectifier as well.
Cheap as chips. Cost more for the potting epoxy than the components.
Come in around 5 bucks each. Glad I did that cos the system is still basically standard.
I have spares on the ready.
Good luck.

Well I`m surprised that worked. The schematic for the B unit on the resource site has the following components missing. Without these it doesn`t work.
5 diodes
2 electrolytic caps 10 microfarad
1 resistor 390 K
2 resistors 75 ohms 5 watts
1 inductor around 500 mH


Can someone give me the correct schematic then, because I am having issues with my ignition lately.
It worked for years but I’m having problems chasing down a random miss. Given up really.
Was going to get the stator rewound. Sort of lost interest though.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2024 7:52 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9840
Location: North Central NC
Which H1 is it, Coops? If you easily made the CDI units, I suspect it's a late H1, and 0120raptor is almost certainly talking about an early H1.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


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