|
Equalizes the length and effectiveness of the center velocity stack area with the two outside ones. Air flow IS NOT compromised.
NOTE: Added clarification, this ducting is actually designed to be a pseudo velocity stack of sorts, adding the length the carburetor needs to retain the velocity air flow to give a good vacuum pull through all the carburetor circuits to pull fuel. This longer length also "tunes" the operating power range of the engine as well.
This is why I am so opposed to all the hoo-haw and smoke about "pod" filters, and "air corrector orifii" to make them work, which never really helps, nor works well.
We are all aware of the power bands, and rev limits of our engines, and racers usually have higher rpm power bands and limits, however, with the pods, that limit goes so far out of the range the engine can perform in, it is not a comedy. In the past, I have always recommended using the stock duct, air filter and a K&N stock insert filter, and that works with simple, sensible rejettng. We can get there in doing what else I have advised, add length to the pod, move the actual pod farther away from the carburetor inlet. Tis changes the out of sight high rpm levels, back to a reasonable engine operating condition.
I still prefer a still air box, or stock air filter over the pods, but, adding the length to them will help immensely, and, if you are inclined to tinker, build a still air box around the pods, too.
Last edited by H2RTuner on Sat Aug 27, 2022 1:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
|
Login
FAQ
