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 Post subject: Oil Pump Priming Time?
PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2021 3:41 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2021 5:59 am
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Location: NY
I have cleaned out the entire injection system and bled the tank line to the pump. The screen is clean and oil seems to flow nicely.
If all is well inside the pump, how long do you think it will take to bleed out the lines to the engine check valves with the engine running around 1500-2000 rpm? This is with the oil pump lever held fully open.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2021 3:55 pm 
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Location: North Central NC
Not very long. As long as you put some oil on the pistons when you installed them you don't need to do anything like run premix, etc. I certainly never needed to.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2021 6:24 pm 
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I use a 9/64 socket and a cordless drill. Lift up the pump gently and turn CCW if memory serves. Hold the bail on the pump wide open and stick your fingers into the intake on the holes that feed the top end. When your fingers get wet with oil it is primed.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2021 11:50 am 
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Tim Steele wrote:
I use a 9/64 socket and a cordless drill. Lift up the pump gently and turn CCW if memory serves. Hold the bail on the pump wide open and stick your fingers into the intake on the holes that feed the top end. When your fingers get wet with oil it is primed.


When you look at the shaft in the motor (side cover), it turns CCW, so when you lift up the pump and attach a drill you want to be turning the drill CW. :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2021 3:49 pm 
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Yes like Jay said. :D :D :D

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Tim Steele in Front Royal, VA
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2021 5:40 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2021 5:59 am
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Location: NY
I'll remove the tach cable and injection lines and lift the pump with the feed line attached. I will have to see what I can use to spin the pump fitting with the drill. I'll spin the engine with the kick starter after I remove the pump, and match the rotation of the cam.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2021 6:16 pm 
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Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
I'm not seeing stat-o-seal washers.
Without them you will likely see air leaks.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 7:21 am 
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That is a picture from when I first got the bike, before I took it apart for new seals.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2021 12:52 pm 
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Tim Steele wrote:
I use a 9/64 socket and a cordless drill. Lift up the pump gently and turn CCW if memory serves. Hold the bail on the pump wide open and stick your fingers into the intake on the holes that feed the top end. When your fingers get wet with oil it is primed.

I spun the pump with the 9/64" socket with the pump fully open and the oil came out of all 3 holes. I checked the rotation with the kick starter, and as JayDav stated, the drill needs to spin clockwise.
I could see the difference in flow with the bail closed and fully open. The flow was fairly low, especially since my cordless drill is currently stuck on low RPM. I'll have to open it up and see what jammed the gear change switch, which did happen after I dropped the drill :shh: .
Seems like it will take a few minutes of running to get all the lines to the engine purged.
Thanks to all.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2021 2:55 pm 
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It should be fine. Glad you got it sorted.

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