Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Hi guys - a technical question about the oil pump on a 1972 H2.

I successfully repaired a stripped thread on one of the oil pump delivery orifices. Now the lever won't come back to its starting position, so something is amiss. Many of you will be familiar with setting up the oil pump but I am not (yet), so I'm treading cautiously, even though it may turn out to be simple. The pump looks new and the bike itself is a lovely early example. The oil pump was working fine before I had to remove it.

How do I get the lever back to its stock setting so I can get the scribe marks on the lever and the pump body to line up?

I include a photo, which shows the current limit of lever travel.

Looking forward to your replies.

Dave

Rotate drive blade. Bale will return to idle.

cliff

or just kick start a bit

Wow, that simple, thanks, Cliff!

I noticed there is no e-clip on the end of your cable. I ordered a replacement cable for my bike. When I installed it I found the tip of the replacement was just a bit shorter than the original and the groove did not protrude enough for the retaining clip, as yours seems to be.
I put a sanding disc on my Dremmel tool and took off just enough aluminum from the mount so the clip could be installed.

OK, Yeddy, I get it. I didn't know there was an e-clip to secure the cable in the alloy boss. When I get access to the bike again in a few days' time, I will look for a groove in the cable ferrule for an e-clip. I guess some pattern / after-market cables might not have that groove?

Thanks for the tip...

My aftermarket cable has the groove, but a slightly shorter ferrule so that it does not protrude through the aluminum boss. I was a bit disappointing when holding the original cable up to the aftermarket I found the shortage.
The easiest way that I could think of to install the clip was to lightly remove a bit of the surface of the aluminum boss.

I'm thinking of locking wire tied tightly around the ferrule (at the 'ledge' where it meets the outer cable sheath so it can't shift) and the aluminium boss. It can be done neatly with a locking wire pliers.

Original 500's had a screw in ferrule cable adjuster at the clutch cover, with jamb nut, and no clip.

Later covers for both H1and H2 used the slide in ferrule and clip, with an inline cable adjuster behind the carbs. Most aftermarket later cables didn't have the correct ferrule to fit the clip, the makers used existing ferrules for different make and model engines.

Another area to look into if the "sheel" doesn't return freely is the return spring under the wheel. Some can get bent, and caught under the wheel, not allowing it to operate, return freely