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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2021 10:24 am 

Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2018 6:06 am
Posts: 17
Location: Houston TX
It's in the Triple Maintainance Manual at http://kawatriple.com/. It's also in another aftermarket manual that I have.

But, in the Kawasaki shop manual there is no mention of Locktite. I wonder if it's that originally there was none and non-abused engines do not need it, but the aftermarket decided that if you were hot rodding around that it was a good idea.

My H1 will not be abused by me, so I imagine I would be OK without locktite. Your thoughts?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2021 2:30 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3147
After market "manuals" usually are done by hacks and less than stellar mechanics, simply to sell a product, the book. Accuracy isn't usually the key facet.

All vertical split cases use a press interference fit to hold bearings, and all I have ever done to install the bearing bore onto the bearing is lightly heat the case that is going onto the bearing, and slide the whole case together.

Now, quite differently, the horizontal split cases create a crush to hold the bearing outer races from spinning. And, that is the reason I strongly advise changing crank and output seals by splitting the cases, those seals are not designed to install like the vertical case seals do.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2021 5:33 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 06, 2015 6:01 am
Posts: 300
Location: Metamora, MI
Well said.


If you want more than 4-5k miles of "normal" riding per rebuild, you gotta make sure the backbone is true.

Bragging about how true the crank run out is just half of it.

These things move/twist and bend at every stroke.

cliff


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2021 8:48 pm 

Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2018 6:06 am
Posts: 17
Location: Houston TX
I split the cases yet again. There was red locktite at least 0.001 thick on the bearings. I cleaned everything up and placed some 0.001 to 0.003" on the bearings and torques the crank studs. The plastigage was fully smashed - well beyond the 0.001 mark.

So my cases are fine. I will reassemble with gray gasket goo tomorrow without locktite.

Thanks for all the help. I'm confident that I am moving in the right direction.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2021 11:04 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 06, 2015 6:01 am
Posts: 300
Location: Metamora, MI
Gene,

Clearance should be negative so plasti gage is not used!

Grey goo of a certain type is needed.(solvent based)

No loc-tite may also be a no no. Gotta measure or just go with 620.

Sure you may get away with it, but it's a gamble.

cliff


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2021 11:08 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9840
Location: North Central NC
ALTERED IMAGE wrote:
Gene,

Clearance should be negative so plasti gage is not used!


cliff

I think he was using is as a sort of go/no-go gauge. If it wasn't fully smashed he'd have known that the case halves had a problem.

_________________
If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2021 7:32 pm 

Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2018 6:06 am
Posts: 17
Location: Houston TX
If it wasn't fully smashed he'd have known that the case halves had a problem. - Exactly!

The plastigage showed that it was the locktite itself that was the problem. The engine has been assembled without locktite using grey non-hardening fuel resistant Permatex (a dead ringer for Yamabond). I am good to go.

Thanks for all the help.


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