Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I got used to flipping mine into neutral before coming to a stop decades ago. If I'm stopped I can let out the clutch and move forward a little, and get it into neutral without moving more than a foot or two.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Same for me, I shift to neutral before stopping, can be difficult if I try it stationary.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.

You stated you are using ATF. There is some back and forth on the use of ATF in the transmission.
From what I've read on the Kawasaki Triples Resources site 80w-90 gear oil is recommended.
Personally I put the 20w-50 motorcycle oil in mine. It's supposedly designed for wet clutch systems.

Right, the current recommendation is to use 80w-90 gear oil, which is what I'm using in my H2 now. However I used ATF for 40,000 miles or so and recently took my transmission apart for the first time since it was built. There was no excessive wear anywhere in it, except for a 3rd gear circlip that failed and let the gear get out of place. I replaced one gear because its dogs were a little more rounded than I like. I think that was 2nd gear on the output shaft. I replaced the bearings, although the originals were not showing any signs of failure, and the shift forks were fine.

For me that negated the horror stories of using ATF, which I originally started using because I was commuting to the U of MD year round, and when I'd get on the H2 when it was 15 degrees out, shifting was pretty sluggish with whatever was in it when I bought it.

The 20w-50 you're using may be a little thicker than 90 gear oil, depending on where in the range each one actually measures, but it's not optimized for gears like gear oil is... it's made as a compromise between engine oil and gear oil. Again, I'd bet it won't hurt your H2 any more than ATF hurt mine.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

There is an FDM on the 3rd gear circlips. The ones with no tab were superseded for n-spin tanned ones.

Is the ball bearing in there? Between the 2 rods?

Thank you Dave. Sure enough:


Now I need to go thought my photos and see if I can remember how I put it back together. I know I used one of the circlips that doesn't have holes for pliers. I think I did use a not-rotating shim but it's been over a year.

Of course not matter how I put it back together I'll never put enough miles on it in the rest of my life to wear through the circlip again.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

I always went overkill, I used tab washers in all 5 places. One of them needs to have the tabs shortened and beveled to fit, but it helps.

This is one of the places we found the 90 weight gear oil worked the best, and ATF the worst.

Also, when you go to set the gear positions and shimming, make up a spacer to add in place of the clutch pack on the input shaft, and put the sprocket and spacer on the output shaft, finger tighten both retainer nuts. This sets both transmission shafts in their normal loaded places, so the shimming gets the gears n their right positions.

I found a receipt for buying a 92024-033 washer, so I seems I put the non-rotating type in.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Great to hear, sir.