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Correct fuel valve will have a vacuum diaphragm held with 5 screws and its own vacuum hose nipple. Fuel side will have 3 fuel out nipples.
Lever will have three positions, ON - PRIME - RES. The valve you show isn't for an H series Kawasaki, could be from one of the 4 stroke models, but, you need the 3 outlet feed. Some two feed manual valves have un-drilled bosses, so another fuel delivery nipple can be added. "T" fitting them all together isn't the best way to do it, either.
The ignition timing is a 3 system setup, magnetic pickup, ignition box, coil for each cylinder, one could be off significantly
Carb synch, some do it one way, others differently, but I usually do it with the engine running, first at idle, then with the throttle cable adjuster at the twist grip holding the engine at about 2K rpms. My choice is 3 vacuum fittings, one on each carb, and a mercury manometer (Carb Styx), the other way is to use a Uni-Syn on each carb, one at a time. A carb that is lagging, slide too far down, lags that cylinder, causing leanness, overheating, and possibly what your center piston was up to.
Contrary to popular belief, the center cylinder does not run hotter than the outside ones, it is usually about 10 deg/F cooler than the outside carbs, but only when the stock front fender is in use. The flow of air over and around the fender was designed to help cool the center cylinder, and when done as stock, works well.
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I was never afraid of Z-1's! All good fun!