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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 5:41 pm 

Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 6:06 pm
Posts: 1135
Location: Honolulu
For the second time one of the motor mounts on the top at the rear (near the carbs) has broken. I don't torque them too tight but I wonder what I should do to prevent this in the future? Maybe some rubber washers or bushings in between the mounts and the crankcase?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 6:25 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:03 am
Posts: 4603
Location: Milang, South Australia
Just use 2 either side, with something like black Sikkaflex between them. Can't remember if you need longer bolts, but I don't think so. :think:

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 8:12 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
I have advocated this for the last 45 years with H1 and H2 triples, since the very first set of cases that tore the upper rear engine mount boss out of the upper case, leave the rear upper engine mount OFF the bike, don't even install it.

Unless, of course, it is a display bike that will never be run/ridden.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 8:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
It is a very rare problem, or it would be mentioned a lot more. You might need to shim so the plates lay flat, Tension from being cocked and tightened could case the breakage. And sinch they are stamped, you might also chamfer all the edges of the outside and holes to remove stress risers. I personally don't use that mount either.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 1:10 am 

Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 6:06 pm
Posts: 1135
Location: Honolulu
This is great information!

1) The bike will be okay with broken or missing mounts at that location.

2) Doubling up the mounts is a great idea, even if just for aesthetics.

3) Shims/cushions in between the mounts and the case.

Thanks All


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 1:24 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
If you insist on flogging that dead horse, the mount should be one that "floats" in all directions. That means it has to have enough free movement in ALL directions at once, to literally float without binding in any direction.

Adding doubled up plate stiffness just aggravates the situation.

Easiest way to do that is as we have been doing since triples were a brand new deal, remove the upper rear engine mount plates from frame to upper case, very simple fix for a "rear engine mount in place" no win situation.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 1:31 pm 

Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 6:06 pm
Posts: 1135
Location: Honolulu
I'd like to have the mount in place so that lookers won't inform me that it's missing, that's all.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 1:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9826
Location: North Central NC
That could be fun if someone actually noticed, but I doubt would happen unless RB happens to be there. :)

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 2:09 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
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Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Yes, a talking point! with a drawl, "yep, anything over 150 hp snaps them like twigs"! :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 6:45 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
Then, make the two link plates out of rubber, and leave the steel ones off the bike. Tell people it helps cornering.


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