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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 8:04 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
Do as you wish. Oils usually have certain small amounts of acids within them, even clean, fresh oils. Used, and new valves will have small amounts of checking on the ball, and seat, and, will have a slight leak if new ball, and dress the seat are not done. It isn't a quality control issue, it is an age related etching/checking issue. I have seen plenty of check balls that have etched circles on the ball, same place and size as the seats they sat against, even new old stock valves. A small seat dressing tool (I build my own specialty tools, this was just another of them), and new ball bearing stopped the "leaking, weeping, seeping".

Mikuni specified in every conversation, with both myself, and a lots of others, that the tests should be dry, and not vacuum, nor reversed pressure, but, positive pressure in the direction of flow, with the pressure pop off, 4.6 psi. Oiling up the valve to check pressure is a crutch for not doing it the way Mikuni says it should be done.

As far as myself, that is the way I have done them, with NO problems afterwards.

I see no "loose tolerances" reasons our engines seize, except for people insisting on doing things incorrectly, and I have seen tons of that in the 4 plus decades I have worked on, and raced them.

I haven't seen anyone in this topic so far insist anyone insist doing it any alternate way than they wish. If you encounter problems after doing it, please don't blame loose tolerances, nor poor quality control, a lot of others haven't induced those problems doing it other ways. Lower relief pressures add oil volume, too high a pop off pressure will restrict delivered oil volumes down, leaner. There is a practical, common sense limit not to exceed.

Best of luck.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 9:02 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Try and find just one 40 years old 3 into one line where the spring tension is the same. I don't see any big deal. The problems come with stuck balls, or letting the motor sit for very long times. Especially on the street, as 99% are running and just fine.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 10:50 pm 

Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 2:57 pm
Posts: 847
Location: Monterey Ca
Ja-Moo wrote:
Try and find just one 40 years old 3 into one line where the spring tension is the same. I don't see any big deal. The problems come with stuck balls, or letting the motor sit for very long times. Especially on the street, as 99% are running and just fine.


Left out the other problem, if one check valve is stuck open the other two will not get any oil.

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Current bikes: H1 69,71,72,76 KH 500, H2 72(2),73,74,75(3) , 77RD 400, 08 KLR 650. 76 KZ 900, Yamaha RZ 500, ihave so many triples gave up listing them.
Have seversl tons of H1/H2/S parts for sale, http://www.triplestuff.net dhg1337@gmail.com


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 11:45 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2011 11:29 am
Posts: 54
Location: california
I'll complete my testing and if all goes well then I'll use it on my bike but that won't be for a while but I know it will work.
Thanks for the information and help Tuner I'll keep you informed on how the test results turn out.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 5:06 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
John is full on right, not many 40 year old parts are in as new condition, and a lot of multiples don,'t always work the same, until "massaged".


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 12:24 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2011 11:29 am
Posts: 54
Location: california
I finished the testing so here's the results, you need to cut new seats in order to get a tighter seat and ball fit, trying to reseat it over the old seat is hit or miss because the edges are concaved, using darth spring and ball kit or reusing the old spring didn't make much of a difference but I think a new spring and ball kit would be better or at least a new ball.
The dry test the pop was 4.5-5 psi but would leak down to 3 psi after the pop, could never get it stop leaking after the pop until it reached around 3 psi.
The wet test the pop was about the same 4.5-5 psi but after the pop it didn't leak and the check valve would close right away around 4.3-4.5 psi an hold from there until the next pop. The leak down test for when the bike sit is still going and look very promising right now I have it sitting at 2 psi for 4 days now and it hasn't dropped. So that's the results.


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